Jammu stuck in traffic snarls

The traffic situation in the City of Temples continues to worsen day by day. Despite every effort by the Traffic Department to stremline it, there seems no respite from frequent traffic snarls, road skirmishes to the Jammuites.With the High Court tightening its noose over the local authorities for regulation and control of traffic in the wake of irksome traffic jams and increasing rate of road accidents the local administration is all geared up to take corrective measures. 

The Supreme Court has clearly stated that proper management and control of traffic is a matter of public safety and is a fundamental right for the purpose of Article 21 of the Constitution. The state High Court had issued directives to the State Government and local authorities earlier in 2006 for traffic management and pollution control in Jammu city.So many interwoven factors have contributed to the increasing chaos over the years.

Governments pursued neo-liberal reforms that not only increased the buying capacity of the middle class but also expended the markets to splurge. Automobiles being the most desirable commodity and a sign of prosperity among the middle class have seen a constant surge.

Jammu adds more than 20,000 new vehicle on its roads every year. The demand is even more and varied. Easy loans, cheaper models, dirty money have made it easier without giving a second thought."Dil Mangey More, This is my life" are the imbedded slogans of modern life.

Jammu city is a curious mix of old, new and the not so new. The old is thickly populated and alleys are narrow. Encroachment of public places, roads, side walks is very common. Inadequate parking adds to the chaos. Urban development has not kept pace with the surging automobiles.

Legal hassles like land acquisition have stalled the proposed construction of new flyovers, over bridges, links, parkings.Town planning and infrastructure for present and the future would be a key challenge for the governments keeping economic realities in mind. General public holds mini buses responsible for frequent jams and commuters are irritated with the drivers. "There are no fixed stops so our drivers have to board and alight passengers wherever they are asked to," says Jatinder Khajuria Provincial General Secretary, Minibus Worker Union. What used to be our stops are now a free parking, he adds. . Corruption in the motor vehicle department and the traffic police is an open secret. A mini bus owner pays Rs.100 a month as entry on every traffic point depending upon their number on a given route. "If we all pay collectively on a route, we also get a rebate from them. Two or three of us can ply for free in rotation, says Roshan Singh a minibus driver. . It relaxes them to play audio, overload passengers and other things like fitness of the vehicle. Danesh Rana, the D.I.G of police (Traffic), however, said corruption of this kind is collusive and both sides are equally culpable for this fix. "We have taken the most stringent action possible against the corrupt cops recently and won't spare any if such incident is brought to over notice by anybody. Keep your documents fit, obey rules and report us if anybody demands a bribe," he asserted.

Traffic police lacks modernization when it comes to checking violations. Alcosensors (Breath Analyzers), speed radars, lux meters digital still cameras, basic software for identifying habitual offenders are still nowhere in the proposed improvement. Traffic records have been computerized recently yet. Rate of issuing challans is very low as compared to wholesale violations. Intercepting eluding offenders is risky for both. Its like playing "Cops and robbers" in the absence of technology. A constable in the traffic police works for upto 14 hours on most days without an overtime for addition hours. The condition of traffic booths is pathetic.

"It's not possible to catch and punish every violator mostly who are young in the absence of stringent motor vehicle laws. They need to be amended so that the quantum of fines has a deterring effect," explained Rana. He assured that the police are going to install a GPS device in every registered motor vehicle to track its position with the help of satellite. Installation of traffic signals and signs has been entrusted to the JMC and hopefully it would be complete by the end of March, he added. "The Motor Vehicle Department has blocked the issuance of new permits to avoid congestion. Permits are issued only to favoured persons and there is a wide discrepancy between the fares and the increased cost of living" says a source in the Motor Vehicle Department Given the number of increasing automobiles the Motor Vehicle Department of the state works with less than 200 employees (Officers included) and generates a revenue of approximately 70 Crores a year. Ironically it has to live on the modernization doles from the Centre for basics like computerization.

Lack of administrative reforms and Transfer Raj is a serious impediment in the smooth functioning of authorities. Officers in the traffic police and the RTO admit the serious lack of coordination. Section 213 of the Motor Vehicle Act 1988 gives ample power to Motor Vehicle officers to carry out functions of the traffic police and are therefore answerable to a single head. Earlier in most of the states there was a fundamental budgetary bias: transport was treated as a non-planned expenditure head or implicitly an expenditure that did not result in any tangible benefits for the state.

It becomes imperative for State Governments to formulate an effective transport policy keeping in mind the realities of the last few decades. Cosmetics do not work long. A perfect hormonal balance is must to look graceful, and of course to stay young.

Dharpur in Sunderbani

The Village is situated at a hill top of Barnara, 15 kms away from Tehsil headquarter Sunderbani. The village is covered with dense forest and wild animals like leopard, apes, peacocks, ostriches, snakes etc. The village has historical and social importance as it was a place visited by deities (Devi and Devatas) of Chelda Bradri. After every six months, a Mela congregation is organized in the village and about 15000-20000 people participate in it.

A beautiful temple of Bua Datti known for its faith & rituals is also located in the area which gives the pleasant view of low lying areas abounding with natural waterfalls.

The village is on the hilltop and many low lying areas and villages like Bahmbla, Nahoti, etc are visible from here. It has a natural catchment and feasibility for Tourism. Having serene surroundings, huts can be constructed on hill to add to the beauty of village.

Reach: The place is merely 10-12 kms away from Tehsil. Sunderbani. The main drawback of the non-development of such hilly places is that Government only approves schemes/ projects in such areas but the corrupt employees and contractors befool the people and make its limitation only in papers. 

Habitation: There are a total numbers of 13 families in the village. There are no basic facilities of education, health, water sanitation and road connectivity to this village. The children also face problems to reach their schools. Also, a dozen of the families belonging to nomadic tribes have been totally deprived of their basic privileges for their survival.

School: There is only one school located at a distance of 3½ kilometers from the hilltop to the downwards in Barnara. The students have to descend this hilly and tough terrain to reach the school. 

Atta Chakki: There is no Atta Chakki in the village. The habitants have to get grinded the maize/wheat grains and have to walk a distance of 3½ kms downwards in this hilly area. The pathway is such a slant and kachha that nobody can go ahead a single step even empty handed. They face trouble to fulfill their day to day needs. 

Water :Presently village is having a few natural resources of water and the same is being supplied to Langar, Nohti, Baranara areas. The water tank constructed by P.H.E. Department in the last decade is in wretched condition and still not functional. Also there is no maintenance of the natural resources. These natural springs are on verge of dryness. In summer, the habitants are fully dependent on these natural resources but due to lack of regular maintenance of these resources crisis can be foreseen in the area. Proper maintenance of these resources is urgently needed lest the habitants of the village face water scarcity problem.

Electricity: The village is having electricity facility but there is no regular maintenance of its utility. In case of sudden curtailment or any fault no employee bothers to visit the area to redress the grievances of people and restore the same well in time.

Road Connectivity: The village is located about 1.5 kilometers away from link road (Bambla-Nahoti) and people have to cover this distance on foot through dense forest. Although a project is already under process by P.W.D. for construction of the road but no action has been initiated so far. As the roads are being considered most urgent part of development of any area, the people living here are facing problems due to the non availability of the road and deprivation of their mobility and basic amenities.

Health Centre: The village is having no medical centre. The nearest health centre is about 5 kms from the village. For vaccination of children, the women have to cover this distance on foot. No vaccination camp has ever been organized by Health department in the locality. 

Aaganwari Centre: There are kids in the village and it is difficult for parents to send them through the dense forest for schooling. In this case there becomes a feasibility of Aganwari Centre in the village. The availability of Centre will help these kids for getting the nutrition and education in the school. 

Agriculture: There is a stretch of approx 400 kanals of agricultural land in the village but due to non-availability of road connectivity just 25% to 30% area is cultivated and low yield of food grains is obtained which is not sufficient to meet the daily requirements of area. Out of this land 35% is fertile land to be used for agricultural purpose. The major crops cultivated are maize, wheat, mustard, pulses etc. The people use to plough in the fields using bulls as there is no road and thus having no facility of tractors. 

Horticulture: The climatic condition of the area is favourable for growing fruit trees like mango, Apricot, lemon, apple, Guava, Orange etc. This will increase the income sources of the people but this section is totally neglected. If the area is extended with the facility through Horticulture department and come up with some new schemes it is sure that there would be upliftment in living standard and boosting in economical conditions. 

Medicinal Plants: The Place is full of Medicinal plants like Amla, Harida, Khar, Aloe Vera etc.

In present era, everything is possible but there is only lack of initiative, priorities and a strong will to proceed with multi projects which are an essential ingredient to boost the development process and benefits of the schemes to the common rural folk without any discrimination and deprivation of their basic and fundamental rights. India in real sense can feel pride when the development reaches to a poor man living in the remote corners of the country. I am sure, with zeal and zest, everything is possible for the development of rural areas of country.

But it is unfortunate that the people of this village are living a life which deprives them of the basic facilities like water, electricity, health care facilities, education, road connectivity and other utility etc. 

In the era of 21st century when Man is going to construct structures on Moon and everything has become possible due to advent of computers, the habitants of this village are not having a school, a healthcare centre or any other government facility.

Despite having these problems, people have not been included under SRO 294 and are being considered as "forward". Thus they are denied their basic rights of reservation for backward classes under this SRO which could have been easily extended to the natives of this small village. 

Chinar Tree in Kashmir valley

As autumn, the golden yellow season of Kashmir, draws to a close, the majestic chinar trees are at their fiery best. Their crimson coloured leaves - so rightly dubbed 'flames of the chinar' - lend a fairytale glow to the scenic valley.From green to yellow through crimson before they fall to the ground, the leaves of the chinar trees have fired many an imagination for prose and verse.

"Che Nar (What fire)?" - these words of a Persian poet who has visited the valley in the past are still resounding in the majestic chinar gardens of NaseemBagh in the Kashmir University campus on the banks of the Dal Lake in Srinagar and other places.Native to Persia, Italy, Belgium, America and Greece, chinar trees were planted on a large scale across the length and breadth of the valley by Mughal emperor Jahangir during his reign from 1605 to 1627 though the origin of the plant in Kashmir is believed to be much earlier than the Mughal period.Later rulers declared it a protected tree as it became a symbol of Kashmir's heritage and beauty. Felling of the chinar or even lopping off its branches is forbidden by law.

A 627-year-old chinar tree planted by Sufi saint Syed Abul Qasim Shah Hamdani in 1374 in central Kashmir's Badgam district is believed to be the oldest of the specie in the world."The magic created by the 'fires of the Chinar' because of its crimson leaves towards the end of the autumn season is something one has to see to believe," Bashir Ahmad War, a retired veterinarian, said."As dozens of the mighty chinar trees surround the visitor with each one of them radiating its fiery brilliance, the spectacle is simply breathtaking. Anybody looking at them from a distance thinks the entire tree is on fire," he added.The valley has some of the finest chinar gardens in Srinagar, Ganderbal, Anantnag and other places where locals and visitors throng these days to take pictures.

Sunil Kumar, a tourist from Punjab: "It is a treat to be among the fiery chinars. I am lucky to have chosen this time of the year to visit Kashmir."The leaves will finally fall to the ground and become the chief source of charcoal for the locals who collect it from half burnt chinar leaves and fill their 'kangris' (earthen firepots woven in willow wicker). The kangris serve as mobile heaters during the harsh winter months. It is carried by the locals under their 'pherans' (tweed vergarments) and its soothing heat enables Kashmiris to brave even  the most bitter winter."Despite central heating, electric heatersand electric blankets, the kangri still remains our best insurance against the biting cold," said Muzaffar Ahmad, a college principal here."As the electric supply remains erratic, the traditional dependence of the locals on the kangri continues unchallenged," he added.

Skuast develops Kohsar Rice

Giving a boost to the prospects for paddy cultivation in high altitude areas of the Kashmir Valley, the Sher-i-Kashmir University of Agriculture, Science and Technology (SKUAST) has developed a new high-yielding rice, dubbed  "Kohsar". According to officials of the State Agriculture Ministry, the variety has a high yield potential of 5 tonnes per hectare. In addition, four other high-yielding rice varieties developed by SKUAST are in the pre-release stage. As per the report of the Ministry of Agriculture, four high-yielding rice varieties -- SKAU-382, SKAU-341, SKAU-292 and SKAU-403 -- with a yield potential of 9.0, 9.5, 9.0 and 8.5 tonnes per hectare, respectively, are in pre-release stages. These have been tested and evaluated in farmers' fields in collaboration with the Department of Agriculture(Kashmir) and experimental farms of SKUAST (Kashmir). Rice is a major kharif crop of the Kashmir Valley, covering an area of about 1.45 lakh hectares. Pusa Sughand-3, an aromatic and basmati type rice variety developed by SKUAST, has already been introduced in the Valley,it said, adding that the aromatic rice variety has a yield potential of 50 quintals

Trees and bushes of jammu kashmir

Trees and bushes are perennial source of greenery, sometimes evergreen, sometimes leafless, sometimes colourful, sometimes laden with snow. Flowering trees of J&K are many but majestic grandeur of Chinar trees is distinct in the green landscape of Kashmir. Botanically identified as Plantanus orientalis (Oriental Plane), Chinar tree changes moods in changing seasons, colourful to lush green, sometimes laden with sheen (snow). It stands planted in some locations of Jammu as well,it is seen planted in Kishtwar, Bhaderwh, Udhampur and even in Jammu. Willows and poplars also add to the charm, standing as sentinels all along roads, highway and canal banks. Locally called Veer and Frast in Kashmiri and Bedda and Safeda in Dogri, Willows and poplars add considerably to the economy of Jammu &Kashmir.

Mughal gardens of Kashmir Srinagar in particular boast of the appealing evergreen trees like Magnolia grandiflora which gets decorated with snowhite blooms of matchless grandeur during summer months. Jammu city has also added Magnolias in the parks and gardens .Magnolia liliflora/soulangena is another shubby plant bearing maroon flowers during early spring months. Magnolias are exotic to Kashmir but are nicely naturalized.

Sheepberries are wild as well as cultivated shrubs which are important source of wild food for our wildlife. These shrubs and small trees belong to Genus Viburnum. Viburnum grandiflorum, commonly called Kulmaansh in Kashmiri, Teldi or Tyond in Dogri and Guchh in Gojri is common in Shankracharya, Zabarwan, Dachigam, Doda,Poonch,Udhampur forests. When snow is about to melt, these bushes get decorated with fragrant pink blooms attraching all kinds of bees and insects. Its garden relative seen in Srinagar Colonies and parks is Viburnum opulus, commonly called as snowball or Guelder Rose of great handsome beauty. Its grandeur is exhilarating.Viburnum mullaha is also seen in Jammu forests,it is called Sallalan in Dogri,its fruits are blood red in colour.Viburnum cotinifolium is seen in Trikuta hills.

Roses are common shrubs with historic antiquity. Nurjahan who used to adore rose beauty is credited with the discovery of Attar of Roses. Several graden varieties have been naturalized over the years but our wild species are equally impotant as they decorate wilderness. Rosa brunonii commonly called "Musk Rose" is quite abundant in J&K hills and Kishtwar or Dachigam National Park. It is climbing rose with highly fragrant white blooms. Honey bees get attracted in thousands to add flavour to the honey collected. Rosa webbiana is another wild rose bush which produces attractive pink red blooms in the forest glades and shrubberies in our forests. Syringa is beautiful shrub of Kashmir, its wild species Syringa emodi is seen at tourist spots like Toshmaidan, Gulmarg, Sonamarg but stands introduced in Gardens of Kashmir. Department of Floriculture has added Syringa persica (Persian Lilac), Syringa vulgaris and Syringa laciniata to add colour and charm to the city landscape. Hydrangea is most popular garden shrub which bears pink and blue flower clusters arranged as attractive balls to attract visitors.

Buddlejas is a group of Butterfly bushes fondly growing in city landscape of Kashmir. Buddleja davidii is most attractive and is seen throughout.Buddleja asiatica with white fragrant blooms and Buddleja crispa with mauve pink blooms are seen in the wild and are native to Himalayas.

False witch Hazel, Parrotiopsis jacquemontiana commonly called as Pohu or Hatab in Kashmiri grows wild in coniferous forests. It is most common in places like Bhaderwah, Bani, Poonch, Padder, Machel, Machhil, ,Dachigam, Kupwara, Pahalgam. Its utility in Kangri making makes this shrub important for Kashmir economy. Indigofera heterantha is also prized for Kangri making and grows throughout hills in J&K. Indigofera cassioides is another species found in Jammu region.

Wild walnut, Juglans regia is unique to J&K forests, seen commonly in Padder, Dachigam, Gurez forests. Alongwith its wild germplasm, walnuts are cultivated throughout Kashmir. Many cultural traditions are intimately linked with Walnut, commonly called Dun in Kashmiri. Another fascinating tree locally called Hundun or Handoon in Kashmiri,Bankhodi in Pahadi, Goon or Guggu in Dogri is Horse Chestnut Tree which is quite common in mountains. This tree has palmately lobed foliage fondly eaten by Kashmir Red Deer, Hangul, hence its name Handun means Walnut of Hangul. Trees are seen planted at few locations along highway between Khannabal to Batwara and Chashmashahi environs.

Catalpa bignonioides is another flowering tree seen planted in the city Environment of Srinagar. Judas tree is unique in bearing dense clusters of pink purple blooms when it is completely leafless. It has been introduced in Kashmir University Campus and at several places in Nishat, Shalimar and Chashmashahi Gardens of Srinagar.

Hawthorn is another tree which grows in Kashmir and is introduced in gardens for decoration. Botanically called Crataegus songarica, its Kashmiri name is Ringkul or Ring. It is a spiny tree of Rose family Rosaceae and produces white blooms and red fruits. Its another garden variety introduced in Chashmashahi Garden produces deep pink flowers during summer time.Cotoneaster bacillaris locally called Reu,Reunsar is another useful timber tree but also seen under worship at Jyodeaayan Mata Temple at Bani in J&K.Prunus cornuta and prunus cerasoides are wild species in Jammu forests,wood of latter is aromatic and used in religious and medicinal purposes.Prunus tomentosa locally called Bushkand is seen growing wild in Dachigam National Park,its fruits tastes like cherry and are useful for kidney ailments.

Among Acacias, Australian Acacia, False Acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia) and Honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos) are seen in our city Environment. Oaks are not found wild in Kashmir but several species like Quercus leucotrichopora (White oak), Quercus baloot ( Holly oak), Quercus glauca ( Japanese Oak), Quercus floribunda ( Moru oak),Quercus semecarpifolia (Kharsu Oak ) are seen in forests of Jammu.Quercus robur is seen planted in Dachigam area of Srinagar. Cypress, cupressus sempervirens and Royal Palm, Roystonea regia stand majestic in all old parks and gardens.

Trees are great asset to our surroundings as they add to aesthetic charm, fight vehicular pollution, act as green lungs and do carbon sequestration. Trees when in bloom attract birds, bees, butterflies and beetles for accomplishing pollination to effect seed production for perpetuating their progeny. Trees keep surroundings clean, green and healthy for human beings and add glory and charm to our survival mileu, God's greatest gifts indeed.

Kashmir Theatre Festival 2011

'Myon Shoosh'-My Love- Whisper the majestic Kashmir Mountains to me, opening their tessellated imposing arms, in a bear hug. I immerse into their beauty. The prickly needles of emerald hued conifers outlining their conical bodies, hurt me no more, they bring tickles at first, a smile and then a rolling laugh.  It has been a quarter of a century since I last set foot in this wondrous land. 'Maayi  Barut Istaqbaal' - Warm Welcome, 'Khush Aamdeed' - Happy Tidings, they murmur softly in my ear.

I raise my hand in a silent salute to the Jammu Kashmir Film Makers and Artists Co-operative Ltd (JKFMAC), the organizers who have brought the 10-day 'Kashmir Comedy Theatre Festival -2011' to this paradisiacal valley in the throes of tumult, as Shabbir Haider the Secretary General and CEO of JKFMAC puts it, "Where smiles come at a premium and laughter is in danger of growing extinct".

A whole generation of Kashmiris turning old at 23 years, growing up in lurking fear and a daily call of attending dirges along with their elders, are completely cut off from what 'normal' childhood, adolescence and teenage years meant for others in India. For this generation it is so special to feel the emotion of hilarity, few have encountered or tasted in their lifetimes.

I feel there could be no better time. The 'Amarnath Yatra' is in full bloom albeit 'under the shadow of the gun', that provides pre-set security cover for the 'laughter challenge'.  

Serene, languid, doppling and dancing Dal Lake in Srinagar shows no sign of any fracas, smoothly letting the 'shikaras' or oblong romantic boats, slide on its beautiful belly, poked off and on by the paddle and rippling in mirth...

At Jammu and Srinagar airports, the almost embarrassing body search, the feel of metal detectors and human hands (even though female) feel like an amorous encroachment of privacy, not once, as at most airports, but three tier and times. Add to that, is the quick pick of a lady's 'tampon' by a security guard and askance expression of suspicion followed by giggles when explained.

Strange, but some emotions of glee are traceable everywhere. I brush aside realms of media reports on turmoil and blood-baths to a 'fake sting operation' feeling some conspiracies lurking beneath the surface to bring disrepute to this virtual heaven on earth.

The grandeur of the inaugural ceremony on June 25th can hardly be gauged from the periphery of the venue of Sher-i-Kashmir International Convention Complex (SKICC) with gun-toting, quick response teams and armoured vehicles lined up, outlined with camouflaged-capped sharp shooters.

Inside, however, the cyan hued 'pedicured' lawns and lofty elusive Chinar trees are busy spreading their enchanted halcyon beauty to the surroundings, where guzzling laughter and fragrances of colors will rule for more than a week.

Ravinder Kaul, globally renowned theatre critic, has a wonderful take on comedy and satire in theatre. He puts it thus, "The man who slug out the first 'abuse' has done a great service to humanity. He has inadvertently given an alternative to human kind to vent out anger other than to invite the rival for a 'bloody-duel' to end the argument. His displeasure therefore has shed no blood or caused no bodily harm to anyone".

And continues, "In theatre, especially in 'satire', an alternate way lends itself to vent out pent-up anger against the government policies, inadequacies of administration, all pervasive corruption, excesses of armed forces and of dogged militants with their quirky logic; creating havoc, deeply affecting and attacking the lives and vital ethos of Kashmiris".

"Kashmiri-a peace loving community, is facing a whole gamut of daily life-threatening situations, robbing them of their privacy, peace and progress. The massive extent of corruption deprives and saps their 'celebrated strengths' and relegates their development in multiple spheres, to a mere trickle. For them, comedy and satire has come as a whiff of fresh mountain wind to air their grievances."

The ceremony of the book release "Theatre Akh Tarruf", authored by veteran theatre personality and  Additional Director General, Doordarshan, Ashok Jailkhani is equally 'theatrical', albeit in the positive sense. Seeds of 'Issbad' are touched upon the heads and shoulders of the author, the chief guest and others at this auspicious occasion, as a tradition practiced by both Hindu and Muslim Kashmiris, and then thrown over the simmering coals in a 'Kangri' or a traditional vessel kept burning for warmth in the winter chill. A 'pious' fragrance emanates from the burning seeds and envelopes the surroundings, warding off evil spirits.

Thereafter, the Governor of this beauteous state Mr. NN Vohra unties the ribbon on the book, declares the Festival open with lighting of the ceremonial lamp to the flash of festoons and a swirl of colors of rainbow 'phirans'- a typical Kashmiri garment, and matching swinging jewellery, classically Kashmiri.

It is 'Bumbro, Bumbro' time, a melody, as ten lovely lasses of Kashmir roll their 'mehandied'-henna patterned  hands-and lift themselves to melt into a frenzy of dance, bringing the audiences in close clasp of what one could say 'befikri'-unmindful of worries.

Jammu girls match their Kashmiri counterparts in obvious competition with gusto on a Dogri dance and song and steep the audience into an untamed, full-blooded frolic.

'Local Taxes Extra'- the opening play releases the first choking veil of curtains restricting the overenthusiastic actors waiting to showcase their talent for the Comedy Festival.

Written by Dr Sohan Lal Koul and directed by Ayash Arif of the Kalidas Theater Group, the play revolves on social issues facing a Kashmiri Pandit couple Bhushan Lal and Usha Rani who fall on the mercy of a quirky landlord out to take advantage of their plight in a series of hilarious situations wherein the servant Gash Ram too develops a taste for intrigues to create misunderstandings between the couple.

That the play in Kashmiri language sustains the attention of the State Governor, one known to have just a formal flavor of the Kashmiri language and constrained for time as dignitaries are wont to say for effect, speaks volumes about the histrionic prowess of the actors on stage. Of more significance, however, is a largely Kashmiri 'Muslim' audience glued to their seats watching the play with all Kashmiri Pandit characters. It seems to me, to be the true bearing or 'icing' of the lurking agony of separation of these two ethnic communities both of whom claim Kashmir as their rightful home and hearth.

It is this spirit of communal harmony and a composite culture that truly spells the values of the lush valley wherefrom many a Bollywood movie scripts have taken their first cues of unbridled love.

Kashmiri Pandits have been pushed, evacuated and left to fend for themselves due to hatred of alien mercenaries in cahoots with some local hawks and hardliners. Their Muslim brethren still hold them dear in unconditional love, that is what the attendance and attention at this Festival reinforces.

The Festival continues for the next ten days, bringing in fun and tears of joyous laughter. The themes revolve around overall corruption in high places and at the grassroots level. Even state run 'Doordarshan' is not spared to bring in guffaws while a play by tiny-tots takes the audiences to matchless taste of twists and turns in the 'kiddy' world.

Artistes include Bhands from Akingaam and Wathoora, the Akingaam Bhands' group being in existence for many centuries, having been elaborately mentioned in Sir Walter Lawrence's seminal book 'The Valley of Kashmir' (1895).  As it began, the Festival ends with another hilarious tale revolving around a Kashmiri Pandit family. 'Dastaar', the play, has already become a part of the popular folklore of Kashmir with legendary actor Hriday Nath Gurtoo's inimitable dialogue 'Dastaaras karizam raachh' -'Protect My Turban'-albeit 'Honour'; on the tip of everyone's tongue.

That Gurtoo died in a miserable condition in a migrant camp in Udhampur soon after being forced to migrate from his happy dwellings in Kashmir, in the early 1990s, has in no way dimmed his creation but rather highlighted the plight of some of the 'Jewels of Kashmir' being ostracized from their beloved land and perishing in misery.

The Festival comes to an end, the armored vehicles and sharp shooters leave the venue, but it has successfully scattered the seeds of tangible merriment in the entire valley.

My eyes scan the picturesque landscape and rivulets flow down my cheeks, I feel a tug, as if a dear one says 'Maty'e Rozu Dama Roz Dariyam Chany'e Lol Re'! 'My love, stay a while longer'. However agony of separation from Kashmir is lesser than the wish that Almighty may shower His choicest blessings and cheer to this Land of the Gods.

In their forlorn imploration, asking me to return to the valley blooming with spring flowers 'Rosh wala myani dilbaro, poshan bahaar aav, yoori walo'-- I peer to look for smiles down from the window of the plane. The arc that begins at one mountain top and, after covering the flat valley, ends at another mountain top, seems like a broad smiley like smile. Today, even the sun has been veiled by clouds on the top to spread the huge glowing smiley that I look for in the crinkly as well as  reddish lips of Kashmiris blessed with unsurpassed beauty and as I place my hand on my heart it leaps and cheers 'Aall izzz well'!

Machail Yatra

Bhaderwah and Kishtwar in Jammu province are dotted with a number of famous pilgrimage sites, all located in the lap of splendid nature. These sites attract thousands of people every year from all over the country. A visit to any pocket of the area richly endowed with nature’s wealth is a life time experience.

One such place, which is very significant both as a religious pilgrimage and also as a popular tourism circuit and is thronged by devotees in large numbers, is the shrine of Chandi Mata or Machail Wali Mata. “Chandi Mata” - the `Goddess of Benevolence’ showers blessing to all irrespective of caste, creed and colour.

Machail Yatra has become one of the most popular annual pilgrimages of the state after Amarnath Yatra and is organized every year during the month of August. This is in spite of the fact that the yatra started in the year 1980 when Thakur Kulvir Singh Jamwal began this yatra from his ancestral house at Chinote Bhaderwah to Machail in erstwhile Doda district which now falls in district Kishtwar.

There’s an interesting anecdote as how this yatra began. Thakur Kulvir Singh Jamwal, while talking to KTNS, narrated that he was serving in Jammu and Kashmir police department as Assistant Sub-inspector and was on his duty in Machail in the 1970s.

He was blessed with a child in January 1977 strangely he (child) would fall ill in the month of August every year and this continued from 1977-1980 when he saw a deity in his dream. He proceeded to Machail Yatra to pay his obeisance to the deity. Again he saw the deity in his dream who asked him to come back after some time. On August 10, 1980, he proceeded to yatra from Chinote Bhaderwah to Machail thereby making the beginning of the yatra which now holds a special place in the chronology of events in any calendar year in the state. He said that in 1980, he was accompanied by 25 members out of who 23 were the members of his family while two were employees from the police department. Then in 1981 and 1982, the yatra was led by Master Krishan Lal of Atholi, in 1983 it was led by Sewa Ram and in 1984, Nek Ram of Kishtwar led the Yatra. In 1985, Kulvir Singh again led the yatra from Chinote, Bhaderwah and after that the yatra became a regular feature from Bhaderwah. With each passing year, the number of pilgrims went on increasing. In 1985, we had a bus full of yatris, he recalled. Slowly and steadily the number of pilgrims proceeding to Yatra swelled to thousands. 

Now, a large number of devotees from across the state take part in the yatra. The mention of Machail yatra would be incomplete without the mention of “Trishul Bhaint” yatra, which has become an innate first step of main yatra.

The “Trishul Bhaint” yatra is organised by one Shimal Kumar Jain from Doda. Kulvir Singh informed that he had requested his friend Shimal Kumar Jain in 1986 to offer a Trishul (trident) for yatra. In response, Shimal Kumar brought a Trishul from Muradabad and offered him at Chinote in the form of procession (yatra) in 1986, that was the beginning of “Trishul Bhaint”  yatra.

Now the yatra is an annual feature. The “Trishul Bhaint” yatra leaves from Doda city to Chinote Bhaderwah every year on July 1. It is preceded by a Jagran at Radheysham Temple at Doda city on June 29 which is followed by break on June 30 and the next day i.e., July 1, the yatra leaves for Bhaderwah. In the Trishul Bhaint Yatra at least 50-60 buses leave Doda for Chinote. After reaching Chinote, the yatra is received and welcomed with great zeal by the local people at Chinote.

Enroute yatra, arrangement is made for drinking water and eatables at several places. The pilgrims after reaching Chinote pay obeisance to the deity (Chandi mata) which is followed by a Jagran and a langar (community lunch) after which the people leave for their homes.

Kulvir Singh told, “The trident (Trishul), which is brought from Doda, is then taken from Chinote to Machail, in the form of “Pavittar Chharri” (holy mace) after one month and 18 days of “pooja” at Chinote. The yatra which starts from Bhaderwah on August 18 is joined by people from Doda and other parts of the state at Pul Doda.  

According to a legend, the Goddess Chandi appeared at Machail in the shape of Shila (Pindi). The mother came here from her Mindhal Battas (HP) to bless the simple, ignorant, helpless and deprived people of Padder area.

The Machail Yatra is a unique pilgrimage with unique features. Besides spiritual, its social aspect is more effective and impressive where the devotees are asked to shun social evils for the welfare of society and mankind.

In Jammu, her temple is in Mahalaxmi Mandir at Pacca Danga. Yatra at Jammu region starts with a religious procession which passes through Jain Bazar, Link Road, Purani Mandi, Raghunath Bazar and Indira Chowk and then joins the yatra at Chinote Bhaderwah.

On the day of Machail yatra, the volunteers from Bhaderwah serve the yatris with eatables at Chandi Mata Mandir. They reach early morning at Chinote where they prepare lunch and prasad for those visiting from Jammu and other regions to join the yatra.

A number of buses in a cavalcade leave from Chinote and pass through Bhaderwah Seri Bazaar where the locals greet the yatris and wish them successful yatra for the peace in the area. The main stopover or reception stations en-route are established at Bhala, Pul Doda, Prem Nagar, Thathri, Kistwar, Paddar, Massu, Chishoti, Atholi Gulabgarh, Layondee, S Kunderpul, Chishoti, Hamooree and then at Machail Mata’s temple. Through out the route religious congregation and Bhandaras are organized to highlight the importance of the yatra. The yatra from Gulab Garh leaves on foot towards Machail which is about 30 km. 

The holy shrine of the Goddess Chandi is situated at a height of over 8,000 feet above the sea level in Machail village in Padder surrounded by high mountains, thick Deodar forests, attractive meadows and world famous sapphire mines.

The most attractive lion astride idols of the Goddess Chandi and Lakshmi Ji made of pure silver are a rare sight and source of inspiration for the pilgrims who come to seek blessing of Goddess.

The most important and impressive aspect of the Machail Yatra is the unique holy mace of the Goddess which leads the pilgrims and provides them with strength and inspiration enroute. Amidst natural splendour, the people trek the mountainous route chanting “jai maa chandi”, “jai maa chandi”. The entire yatra route is followed by river Chenab which was earlier called “Chandrabagha” which has an enchanting cascading flow here.

The route is a mix of plains and mountains, broad and narrow route, even somewhere the route is so narrow that only a single person can pass through. In the yatra route there is a place which is called “darshani darwaza” where the yatris keep their holy maces and perform pooja and then the holy mace is carried forward and the yatris follow. After reaching at the temple site a full night “jagran” is organised where after the people leave for their homes in the morning. Another important feature of the yatra is that after the yatra concludes, the holy mace is brought back and is placed in the “Mata Chandi’s temple at Chinote, Bhaderwah.   

                       

The Chandi Dham Machail has both Shiv and Shakti. On the one hand, the Goddess Chandi (Shakti) is blessing her devotees at Machail village while on the other hand there’s a Shiva Lingam on the opposite high mountain where the pilgrims visit to pay obeisance on the pious occasion of the Shakti yatra. The mountain is called Shiv Pahad which often remains covered with black clouds. The devotees describe it as a unique union of Shiva and Shakti at Machail.

Yet another beautiful aspect of the spiritual Machail Yatra, which gives an opportunity to have a union with the magnificent nature, is that it has strengthened the spirit of religious tolerance, bonds of secularism and mutual brotherhood among the masses which is apparent from the fact that even the Muslim brothers remain present in good strength to receive the Yatra where-ever it passes.

Hangul in Kashmir

Hope has kindled for the survival of the nearly extinct Kashmir antelope ‘Hangul’. The preliminary findings of the census of Hangul conducted in Kashmir in March 2011 have shown an increase in their numbers. The state Forest Minister Mian Altaf Ahmad while reviewing the conservation of Hangul in Srinagar recently revealed that census report of the Wildlife Institute of India (WII) has put the number of Hanguls at 218 in Dachigam and adjoining areas.

The Department of Wild Life Protection of Jammu and Kashmir Government in collaboration with the WII has been regularly monitoring the population of Hangul in the Dachigam National Park and the adjoining areas since 2004. The last census in 2009 had put their number at 175 with an increase in male, female and fawn ratio. The wildlife authorities had that time said that it boded well for a sustained population growth of Hangul and had described it as a sign of hope.

Critically endangered Hangul, a sub-species of red deer, is found only in Kashmir. Kashmir stag is distinct with its male species bestowed with magnificent antlers with 11 to 16 points and long hair on their necks while their female counterparts have none of these features. Nevertheless, both change their brownish fur with seasons and also with age. In the beginning of the 20th century the red deer existed in thousands. They lived in groups of 2 to 18 in dense riverine forests, high valleys, and mountains of Kashmir valley. Unfortunately, their habitats were destroyed, their pastures over-grazed by domestic livestock, and became victims of poaching.

Hangul is confined today to Dachigam National Park at elevations of 3,035 meters on the outskirts of state’s summer capital Srinagar. According to an aged and former wildlife official Mohammad Qasim Wani, at the time of Independence there were around 3,000 Hangul spread over various parts of the valley. He recalled that he had seen quite big herds of Hangul in Kulgam and Pahalgam in South Kashmir and Uri, Lolab, Kupwara, Gurez, Teetwal, and other places in western and northern parts of the valley.

Similarly, older people living around Dachigam National Park recall that the area had plenty of Hangul who would sneak into their fields to eat crops. Wildlife officials confirm that the National Park had as many as 800 Hangul at one time. Mohammad Qasim Wani laments that Hangul became victim of poachers’ greed and the indiscriminate killings for sport that wiped out the Kashmir stag from most of the areas in the valley and taking it to the verge of extinction. Moreover, human encroachments into forests have considerably increased since 1947 resulting in fragmentation of the habitat of Hangul.

The first ever census of the Hanguls by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources was held about four decades back in early 1970s which sounded alarm bells as their numbers were found to be mere 170. The State Government initiated several measures to save the Hangul from extinction. These included the enactment of Wildlife Act and the setting up of a full-fledged wildlife department. These and other steps had started giving great results and the Hangul population increased to over 340 by 1980.

But unfortunately, the outbreak of militancy over two decades back set the clock back, while the Wildlife Department staff feared to venture out into the Hangul habitat some nomads reportedly took undue advantage of the situation and encroached with their sheep into the designated grazing grounds of Hangul. The Wildlife Institute of India shockingly found a steep drop in their number ranging somewhere between 117 and 160 making the Kashmir stag critically endangered. However, with situation on the ground improving in recent years, the conditions for Hangul’s survival are changing for the better.

The three-member team of the Wildlife Institute of India during the recent census spotted Hangul outside the Dachigam National Park in nearby Khanmoh, Khrew, and Brain. The Institute has suggested that besides these areas adjoining Chasmashahi, Nishat and Wangat should also be incorporated in the conservation area of the endangered deer species. Encouraged by the latest census findings, the Department of Wildlife Protection jointly with the Wildlife Trust of India, New Delhi has initiated the survey of Hangul all over Kashmir valley to know the actual position regarding the distribution of Hangul population in natural habitat. Meanwhile, an ambitious ‘Save Hangul’ project is being implemented which includes survey of the Hangul’s natural habitat along with that of the leopard and black bear. The five-year project will make use of the latest wild animal photograph technology, including the use of satellite imageries and geographical information systems.

The other features of the Rs. 1.67 crore project includes artificial breeding of the highly endangered deer for which a Conservation Breeding Centre is being set up with necessary infrastructure on about five acres area at Shikargagh in Tral with monetary assistance from the Central Zoo Authority. Construction of another such breeding centre is in progress at Darwudri-Mamar. According to the Chief Wildlife Warden of Jammu & Kashmir, A K Srivastava on its completion around ten male and female Hanguls in the ratio 3:7 would be put up in the centre for breeding. Once the fawn grow, they would be installed with radio collars and released into the wild to monitor their movements. Experts say the centre would also help in building a genetic stock of Hangul in case the species gets extinct due to some natural calamity or any other reason. The programme is likely to be expanded further depending upon its success.

It is also proposed under the project to upgrade the natural domain of Hangul through reforestation and also initiate measures to conserve soil and improve water management and develop pastures. Anti-poaching measures would be strengthened too and encroachment into Hangul pastures prevented. But experts say much will depend upon the participation of local community in the conservation efforts. Without people’s involvement and political will of the Government, Hangul’s future would remain in doldrums. There is already awareness about it in certain sections of local community and that has acted as a silver lining. This needs to be broad based and strengthened to conserve Hangul in its last bastion, who is a glorious constituent of Kashmir’s natural heritage.