Kashmir Theatre Festival 2011

'Myon Shoosh'-My Love- Whisper the majestic Kashmir Mountains to me, opening their tessellated imposing arms, in a bear hug. I immerse into their beauty. The prickly needles of emerald hued conifers outlining their conical bodies, hurt me no more, they bring tickles at first, a smile and then a rolling laugh.  It has been a quarter of a century since I last set foot in this wondrous land. 'Maayi  Barut Istaqbaal' - Warm Welcome, 'Khush Aamdeed' - Happy Tidings, they murmur softly in my ear.

I raise my hand in a silent salute to the Jammu Kashmir Film Makers and Artists Co-operative Ltd (JKFMAC), the organizers who have brought the 10-day 'Kashmir Comedy Theatre Festival -2011' to this paradisiacal valley in the throes of tumult, as Shabbir Haider the Secretary General and CEO of JKFMAC puts it, "Where smiles come at a premium and laughter is in danger of growing extinct".

A whole generation of Kashmiris turning old at 23 years, growing up in lurking fear and a daily call of attending dirges along with their elders, are completely cut off from what 'normal' childhood, adolescence and teenage years meant for others in India. For this generation it is so special to feel the emotion of hilarity, few have encountered or tasted in their lifetimes.

I feel there could be no better time. The 'Amarnath Yatra' is in full bloom albeit 'under the shadow of the gun', that provides pre-set security cover for the 'laughter challenge'.  

Serene, languid, doppling and dancing Dal Lake in Srinagar shows no sign of any fracas, smoothly letting the 'shikaras' or oblong romantic boats, slide on its beautiful belly, poked off and on by the paddle and rippling in mirth...

At Jammu and Srinagar airports, the almost embarrassing body search, the feel of metal detectors and human hands (even though female) feel like an amorous encroachment of privacy, not once, as at most airports, but three tier and times. Add to that, is the quick pick of a lady's 'tampon' by a security guard and askance expression of suspicion followed by giggles when explained.

Strange, but some emotions of glee are traceable everywhere. I brush aside realms of media reports on turmoil and blood-baths to a 'fake sting operation' feeling some conspiracies lurking beneath the surface to bring disrepute to this virtual heaven on earth.

The grandeur of the inaugural ceremony on June 25th can hardly be gauged from the periphery of the venue of Sher-i-Kashmir International Convention Complex (SKICC) with gun-toting, quick response teams and armoured vehicles lined up, outlined with camouflaged-capped sharp shooters.

Inside, however, the cyan hued 'pedicured' lawns and lofty elusive Chinar trees are busy spreading their enchanted halcyon beauty to the surroundings, where guzzling laughter and fragrances of colors will rule for more than a week.

Ravinder Kaul, globally renowned theatre critic, has a wonderful take on comedy and satire in theatre. He puts it thus, "The man who slug out the first 'abuse' has done a great service to humanity. He has inadvertently given an alternative to human kind to vent out anger other than to invite the rival for a 'bloody-duel' to end the argument. His displeasure therefore has shed no blood or caused no bodily harm to anyone".

And continues, "In theatre, especially in 'satire', an alternate way lends itself to vent out pent-up anger against the government policies, inadequacies of administration, all pervasive corruption, excesses of armed forces and of dogged militants with their quirky logic; creating havoc, deeply affecting and attacking the lives and vital ethos of Kashmiris".

"Kashmiri-a peace loving community, is facing a whole gamut of daily life-threatening situations, robbing them of their privacy, peace and progress. The massive extent of corruption deprives and saps their 'celebrated strengths' and relegates their development in multiple spheres, to a mere trickle. For them, comedy and satire has come as a whiff of fresh mountain wind to air their grievances."

The ceremony of the book release "Theatre Akh Tarruf", authored by veteran theatre personality and  Additional Director General, Doordarshan, Ashok Jailkhani is equally 'theatrical', albeit in the positive sense. Seeds of 'Issbad' are touched upon the heads and shoulders of the author, the chief guest and others at this auspicious occasion, as a tradition practiced by both Hindu and Muslim Kashmiris, and then thrown over the simmering coals in a 'Kangri' or a traditional vessel kept burning for warmth in the winter chill. A 'pious' fragrance emanates from the burning seeds and envelopes the surroundings, warding off evil spirits.

Thereafter, the Governor of this beauteous state Mr. NN Vohra unties the ribbon on the book, declares the Festival open with lighting of the ceremonial lamp to the flash of festoons and a swirl of colors of rainbow 'phirans'- a typical Kashmiri garment, and matching swinging jewellery, classically Kashmiri.

It is 'Bumbro, Bumbro' time, a melody, as ten lovely lasses of Kashmir roll their 'mehandied'-henna patterned  hands-and lift themselves to melt into a frenzy of dance, bringing the audiences in close clasp of what one could say 'befikri'-unmindful of worries.

Jammu girls match their Kashmiri counterparts in obvious competition with gusto on a Dogri dance and song and steep the audience into an untamed, full-blooded frolic.

'Local Taxes Extra'- the opening play releases the first choking veil of curtains restricting the overenthusiastic actors waiting to showcase their talent for the Comedy Festival.

Written by Dr Sohan Lal Koul and directed by Ayash Arif of the Kalidas Theater Group, the play revolves on social issues facing a Kashmiri Pandit couple Bhushan Lal and Usha Rani who fall on the mercy of a quirky landlord out to take advantage of their plight in a series of hilarious situations wherein the servant Gash Ram too develops a taste for intrigues to create misunderstandings between the couple.

That the play in Kashmiri language sustains the attention of the State Governor, one known to have just a formal flavor of the Kashmiri language and constrained for time as dignitaries are wont to say for effect, speaks volumes about the histrionic prowess of the actors on stage. Of more significance, however, is a largely Kashmiri 'Muslim' audience glued to their seats watching the play with all Kashmiri Pandit characters. It seems to me, to be the true bearing or 'icing' of the lurking agony of separation of these two ethnic communities both of whom claim Kashmir as their rightful home and hearth.

It is this spirit of communal harmony and a composite culture that truly spells the values of the lush valley wherefrom many a Bollywood movie scripts have taken their first cues of unbridled love.

Kashmiri Pandits have been pushed, evacuated and left to fend for themselves due to hatred of alien mercenaries in cahoots with some local hawks and hardliners. Their Muslim brethren still hold them dear in unconditional love, that is what the attendance and attention at this Festival reinforces.

The Festival continues for the next ten days, bringing in fun and tears of joyous laughter. The themes revolve around overall corruption in high places and at the grassroots level. Even state run 'Doordarshan' is not spared to bring in guffaws while a play by tiny-tots takes the audiences to matchless taste of twists and turns in the 'kiddy' world.

Artistes include Bhands from Akingaam and Wathoora, the Akingaam Bhands' group being in existence for many centuries, having been elaborately mentioned in Sir Walter Lawrence's seminal book 'The Valley of Kashmir' (1895).  As it began, the Festival ends with another hilarious tale revolving around a Kashmiri Pandit family. 'Dastaar', the play, has already become a part of the popular folklore of Kashmir with legendary actor Hriday Nath Gurtoo's inimitable dialogue 'Dastaaras karizam raachh' -'Protect My Turban'-albeit 'Honour'; on the tip of everyone's tongue.

That Gurtoo died in a miserable condition in a migrant camp in Udhampur soon after being forced to migrate from his happy dwellings in Kashmir, in the early 1990s, has in no way dimmed his creation but rather highlighted the plight of some of the 'Jewels of Kashmir' being ostracized from their beloved land and perishing in misery.

The Festival comes to an end, the armored vehicles and sharp shooters leave the venue, but it has successfully scattered the seeds of tangible merriment in the entire valley.

My eyes scan the picturesque landscape and rivulets flow down my cheeks, I feel a tug, as if a dear one says 'Maty'e Rozu Dama Roz Dariyam Chany'e Lol Re'! 'My love, stay a while longer'. However agony of separation from Kashmir is lesser than the wish that Almighty may shower His choicest blessings and cheer to this Land of the Gods.

In their forlorn imploration, asking me to return to the valley blooming with spring flowers 'Rosh wala myani dilbaro, poshan bahaar aav, yoori walo'-- I peer to look for smiles down from the window of the plane. The arc that begins at one mountain top and, after covering the flat valley, ends at another mountain top, seems like a broad smiley like smile. Today, even the sun has been veiled by clouds on the top to spread the huge glowing smiley that I look for in the crinkly as well as  reddish lips of Kashmiris blessed with unsurpassed beauty and as I place my hand on my heart it leaps and cheers 'Aall izzz well'!

By RASHMI TALWAR 

Machail Yatra

Bhaderwah and Kishtwar in Jammu province are dotted with a number of famous pilgrimage sites, all located in the lap of splendid nature. These sites attract thousands of people every year from all over the country. A visit to any pocket of the area richly endowed with nature’s wealth is a life time experience.

One such place, which is very significant both as a religious pilgrimage and also as a popular tourism circuit and is thronged by devotees in large numbers, is the shrine of Chandi Mata or Machail Wali Mata. “Chandi Mata” - the `Goddess of Benevolence’ showers blessing to all irrespective of caste, creed and colour.

Machail Yatra has become one of the most popular annual pilgrimages of the state after Amarnath Yatra and is organized every year during the month of August. This is in spite of the fact that the yatra started in the year 1980 when Thakur Kulvir Singh Jamwal began this yatra from his ancestral house at Chinote Bhaderwah to Machail in erstwhile Doda district which now falls in district Kishtwar.

There’s an interesting anecdote as how this yatra began. Thakur Kulvir Singh Jamwal, while talking to KTNS, narrated that he was serving in Jammu and Kashmir police department as Assistant Sub-inspector and was on his duty in Machail in the 1970s.

He was blessed with a child in January 1977 strangely he (child) would fall ill in the month of August every year and this continued from 1977-1980 when he saw a deity in his dream. He proceeded to Machail Yatra to pay his obeisance to the deity. Again he saw the deity in his dream who asked him to come back after some time. On August 10, 1980, he proceeded to yatra from Chinote Bhaderwah to Machail thereby making the beginning of the yatra which now holds a special place in the chronology of events in any calendar year in the state. He said that in 1980, he was accompanied by 25 members out of who 23 were the members of his family while two were employees from the police department. Then in 1981 and 1982, the yatra was led by Master Krishan Lal of Atholi, in 1983 it was led by Sewa Ram and in 1984, Nek Ram of Kishtwar led the Yatra. In 1985, Kulvir Singh again led the yatra from Chinote, Bhaderwah and after that the yatra became a regular feature from Bhaderwah. With each passing year, the number of pilgrims went on increasing. In 1985, we had a bus full of yatris, he recalled. Slowly and steadily the number of pilgrims proceeding to Yatra swelled to thousands. 

Now, a large number of devotees from across the state take part in the yatra. The mention of Machail yatra would be incomplete without the mention of “Trishul Bhaint” yatra, which has become an innate first step of main yatra.

The “Trishul Bhaint” yatra is organised by one Shimal Kumar Jain from Doda. Kulvir Singh informed that he had requested his friend Shimal Kumar Jain in 1986 to offer a Trishul (trident) for yatra. In response, Shimal Kumar brought a Trishul from Muradabad and offered him at Chinote in the form of procession (yatra) in 1986, that was the beginning of “Trishul Bhaint”  yatra.

Now the yatra is an annual feature. The “Trishul Bhaint” yatra leaves from Doda city to Chinote Bhaderwah every year on July 1. It is preceded by a Jagran at Radheysham Temple at Doda city on June 29 which is followed by break on June 30 and the next day i.e., July 1, the yatra leaves for Bhaderwah. In the Trishul Bhaint Yatra at least 50-60 buses leave Doda for Chinote. After reaching Chinote, the yatra is received and welcomed with great zeal by the local people at Chinote.

Enroute yatra, arrangement is made for drinking water and eatables at several places. The pilgrims after reaching Chinote pay obeisance to the deity (Chandi mata) which is followed by a Jagran and a langar (community lunch) after which the people leave for their homes.

Kulvir Singh told, “The trident (Trishul), which is brought from Doda, is then taken from Chinote to Machail, in the form of “Pavittar Chharri” (holy mace) after one month and 18 days of “pooja” at Chinote. The yatra which starts from Bhaderwah on August 18 is joined by people from Doda and other parts of the state at Pul Doda.  

According to a legend, the Goddess Chandi appeared at Machail in the shape of Shila (Pindi). The mother came here from her Mindhal Battas (HP) to bless the simple, ignorant, helpless and deprived people of Padder area.

The Machail Yatra is a unique pilgrimage with unique features. Besides spiritual, its social aspect is more effective and impressive where the devotees are asked to shun social evils for the welfare of society and mankind.

In Jammu, her temple is in Mahalaxmi Mandir at Pacca Danga. Yatra at Jammu region starts with a religious procession which passes through Jain Bazar, Link Road, Purani Mandi, Raghunath Bazar and Indira Chowk and then joins the yatra at Chinote Bhaderwah.

On the day of Machail yatra, the volunteers from Bhaderwah serve the yatris with eatables at Chandi Mata Mandir. They reach early morning at Chinote where they prepare lunch and prasad for those visiting from Jammu and other regions to join the yatra.

A number of buses in a cavalcade leave from Chinote and pass through Bhaderwah Seri Bazaar where the locals greet the yatris and wish them successful yatra for the peace in the area. The main stopover or reception stations en-route are established at Bhala, Pul Doda, Prem Nagar, Thathri, Kistwar, Paddar, Massu, Chishoti, Atholi Gulabgarh, Layondee, S Kunderpul, Chishoti, Hamooree and then at Machail Mata’s temple. Through out the route religious congregation and Bhandaras are organized to highlight the importance of the yatra. The yatra from Gulab Garh leaves on foot towards Machail which is about 30 km. 

The holy shrine of the Goddess Chandi is situated at a height of over 8,000 feet above the sea level in Machail village in Padder surrounded by high mountains, thick Deodar forests, attractive meadows and world famous sapphire mines.

The most attractive lion astride idols of the Goddess Chandi and Lakshmi Ji made of pure silver are a rare sight and source of inspiration for the pilgrims who come to seek blessing of Goddess.

The most important and impressive aspect of the Machail Yatra is the unique holy mace of the Goddess which leads the pilgrims and provides them with strength and inspiration enroute. Amidst natural splendour, the people trek the mountainous route chanting “jai maa chandi”, “jai maa chandi”. The entire yatra route is followed by river Chenab which was earlier called “Chandrabagha” which has an enchanting cascading flow here.

The route is a mix of plains and mountains, broad and narrow route, even somewhere the route is so narrow that only a single person can pass through. In the yatra route there is a place which is called “darshani darwaza” where the yatris keep their holy maces and perform pooja and then the holy mace is carried forward and the yatris follow. After reaching at the temple site a full night “jagran” is organised where after the people leave for their homes in the morning. Another important feature of the yatra is that after the yatra concludes, the holy mace is brought back and is placed in the “Mata Chandi’s temple at Chinote, Bhaderwah.   

                       

The Chandi Dham Machail has both Shiv and Shakti. On the one hand, the Goddess Chandi (Shakti) is blessing her devotees at Machail village while on the other hand there’s a Shiva Lingam on the opposite high mountain where the pilgrims visit to pay obeisance on the pious occasion of the Shakti yatra. The mountain is called Shiv Pahad which often remains covered with black clouds. The devotees describe it as a unique union of Shiva and Shakti at Machail.

Yet another beautiful aspect of the spiritual Machail Yatra, which gives an opportunity to have a union with the magnificent nature, is that it has strengthened the spirit of religious tolerance, bonds of secularism and mutual brotherhood among the masses which is apparent from the fact that even the Muslim brothers remain present in good strength to receive the Yatra where-ever it passes.