Chinar Tree in Kashmir valley

As autumn, the golden yellow season of Kashmir, draws to a close, the majestic chinar trees are at their fiery best. Their crimson coloured leaves - so rightly dubbed 'flames of the chinar' - lend a fairytale glow to the scenic valley.From green to yellow through crimson before they fall to the ground, the leaves of the chinar trees have fired many an imagination for prose and verse.

"Che Nar (What fire)?" - these words of a Persian poet who has visited the valley in the past are still resounding in the majestic chinar gardens of NaseemBagh in the Kashmir University campus on the banks of the Dal Lake in Srinagar and other places.Native to Persia, Italy, Belgium, America and Greece, chinar trees were planted on a large scale across the length and breadth of the valley by Mughal emperor Jahangir during his reign from 1605 to 1627 though the origin of the plant in Kashmir is believed to be much earlier than the Mughal period.Later rulers declared it a protected tree as it became a symbol of Kashmir's heritage and beauty. Felling of the chinar or even lopping off its branches is forbidden by law.

A 627-year-old chinar tree planted by Sufi saint Syed Abul Qasim Shah Hamdani in 1374 in central Kashmir's Badgam district is believed to be the oldest of the specie in the world."The magic created by the 'fires of the Chinar' because of its crimson leaves towards the end of the autumn season is something one has to see to believe," Bashir Ahmad War, a retired veterinarian, said."As dozens of the mighty chinar trees surround the visitor with each one of them radiating its fiery brilliance, the spectacle is simply breathtaking. Anybody looking at them from a distance thinks the entire tree is on fire," he added.The valley has some of the finest chinar gardens in Srinagar, Ganderbal, Anantnag and other places where locals and visitors throng these days to take pictures.

Sunil Kumar, a tourist from Punjab: "It is a treat to be among the fiery chinars. I am lucky to have chosen this time of the year to visit Kashmir."The leaves will finally fall to the ground and become the chief source of charcoal for the locals who collect it from half burnt chinar leaves and fill their 'kangris' (earthen firepots woven in willow wicker). The kangris serve as mobile heaters during the harsh winter months. It is carried by the locals under their 'pherans' (tweed vergarments) and its soothing heat enables Kashmiris to brave even  the most bitter winter."Despite central heating, electric heatersand electric blankets, the kangri still remains our best insurance against the biting cold," said Muzaffar Ahmad, a college principal here."As the electric supply remains erratic, the traditional dependence of the locals on the kangri continues unchallenged," he added.

Skuast develops Kohsar Rice

Giving a boost to the prospects for paddy cultivation in high altitude areas of the Kashmir Valley, the Sher-i-Kashmir University of Agriculture, Science and Technology (SKUAST) has developed a new high-yielding rice, dubbed  "Kohsar". According to officials of the State Agriculture Ministry, the variety has a high yield potential of 5 tonnes per hectare. In addition, four other high-yielding rice varieties developed by SKUAST are in the pre-release stage. As per the report of the Ministry of Agriculture, four high-yielding rice varieties -- SKAU-382, SKAU-341, SKAU-292 and SKAU-403 -- with a yield potential of 9.0, 9.5, 9.0 and 8.5 tonnes per hectare, respectively, are in pre-release stages. These have been tested and evaluated in farmers' fields in collaboration with the Department of Agriculture(Kashmir) and experimental farms of SKUAST (Kashmir). Rice is a major kharif crop of the Kashmir Valley, covering an area of about 1.45 lakh hectares. Pusa Sughand-3, an aromatic and basmati type rice variety developed by SKUAST, has already been introduced in the Valley,it said, adding that the aromatic rice variety has a yield potential of 50 quintals

Trees and bushes of jammu kashmir

Trees and bushes are perennial source of greenery, sometimes evergreen, sometimes leafless, sometimes colourful, sometimes laden with snow. Flowering trees of J&K are many but majestic grandeur of Chinar trees is distinct in the green landscape of Kashmir. Botanically identified as Plantanus orientalis (Oriental Plane), Chinar tree changes moods in changing seasons, colourful to lush green, sometimes laden with sheen (snow). It stands planted in some locations of Jammu as well,it is seen planted in Kishtwar, Bhaderwh, Udhampur and even in Jammu. Willows and poplars also add to the charm, standing as sentinels all along roads, highway and canal banks. Locally called Veer and Frast in Kashmiri and Bedda and Safeda in Dogri, Willows and poplars add considerably to the economy of Jammu &Kashmir.

Mughal gardens of Kashmir Srinagar in particular boast of the appealing evergreen trees like Magnolia grandiflora which gets decorated with snowhite blooms of matchless grandeur during summer months. Jammu city has also added Magnolias in the parks and gardens .Magnolia liliflora/soulangena is another shubby plant bearing maroon flowers during early spring months. Magnolias are exotic to Kashmir but are nicely naturalized.

Sheepberries are wild as well as cultivated shrubs which are important source of wild food for our wildlife. These shrubs and small trees belong to Genus Viburnum. Viburnum grandiflorum, commonly called Kulmaansh in Kashmiri, Teldi or Tyond in Dogri and Guchh in Gojri is common in Shankracharya, Zabarwan, Dachigam, Doda,Poonch,Udhampur forests. When snow is about to melt, these bushes get decorated with fragrant pink blooms attraching all kinds of bees and insects. Its garden relative seen in Srinagar Colonies and parks is Viburnum opulus, commonly called as snowball or Guelder Rose of great handsome beauty. Its grandeur is exhilarating.Viburnum mullaha is also seen in Jammu forests,it is called Sallalan in Dogri,its fruits are blood red in colour.Viburnum cotinifolium is seen in Trikuta hills.

Roses are common shrubs with historic antiquity. Nurjahan who used to adore rose beauty is credited with the discovery of Attar of Roses. Several graden varieties have been naturalized over the years but our wild species are equally impotant as they decorate wilderness. Rosa brunonii commonly called "Musk Rose" is quite abundant in J&K hills and Kishtwar or Dachigam National Park. It is climbing rose with highly fragrant white blooms. Honey bees get attracted in thousands to add flavour to the honey collected. Rosa webbiana is another wild rose bush which produces attractive pink red blooms in the forest glades and shrubberies in our forests. Syringa is beautiful shrub of Kashmir, its wild species Syringa emodi is seen at tourist spots like Toshmaidan, Gulmarg, Sonamarg but stands introduced in Gardens of Kashmir. Department of Floriculture has added Syringa persica (Persian Lilac), Syringa vulgaris and Syringa laciniata to add colour and charm to the city landscape. Hydrangea is most popular garden shrub which bears pink and blue flower clusters arranged as attractive balls to attract visitors.

Buddlejas is a group of Butterfly bushes fondly growing in city landscape of Kashmir. Buddleja davidii is most attractive and is seen throughout.Buddleja asiatica with white fragrant blooms and Buddleja crispa with mauve pink blooms are seen in the wild and are native to Himalayas.

False witch Hazel, Parrotiopsis jacquemontiana commonly called as Pohu or Hatab in Kashmiri grows wild in coniferous forests. It is most common in places like Bhaderwah, Bani, Poonch, Padder, Machel, Machhil, ,Dachigam, Kupwara, Pahalgam. Its utility in Kangri making makes this shrub important for Kashmir economy. Indigofera heterantha is also prized for Kangri making and grows throughout hills in J&K. Indigofera cassioides is another species found in Jammu region.

Wild walnut, Juglans regia is unique to J&K forests, seen commonly in Padder, Dachigam, Gurez forests. Alongwith its wild germplasm, walnuts are cultivated throughout Kashmir. Many cultural traditions are intimately linked with Walnut, commonly called Dun in Kashmiri. Another fascinating tree locally called Hundun or Handoon in Kashmiri,Bankhodi in Pahadi, Goon or Guggu in Dogri is Horse Chestnut Tree which is quite common in mountains. This tree has palmately lobed foliage fondly eaten by Kashmir Red Deer, Hangul, hence its name Handun means Walnut of Hangul. Trees are seen planted at few locations along highway between Khannabal to Batwara and Chashmashahi environs.

Catalpa bignonioides is another flowering tree seen planted in the city Environment of Srinagar. Judas tree is unique in bearing dense clusters of pink purple blooms when it is completely leafless. It has been introduced in Kashmir University Campus and at several places in Nishat, Shalimar and Chashmashahi Gardens of Srinagar.

Hawthorn is another tree which grows in Kashmir and is introduced in gardens for decoration. Botanically called Crataegus songarica, its Kashmiri name is Ringkul or Ring. It is a spiny tree of Rose family Rosaceae and produces white blooms and red fruits. Its another garden variety introduced in Chashmashahi Garden produces deep pink flowers during summer time.Cotoneaster bacillaris locally called Reu,Reunsar is another useful timber tree but also seen under worship at Jyodeaayan Mata Temple at Bani in J&K.Prunus cornuta and prunus cerasoides are wild species in Jammu forests,wood of latter is aromatic and used in religious and medicinal purposes.Prunus tomentosa locally called Bushkand is seen growing wild in Dachigam National Park,its fruits tastes like cherry and are useful for kidney ailments.

Among Acacias, Australian Acacia, False Acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia) and Honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos) are seen in our city Environment. Oaks are not found wild in Kashmir but several species like Quercus leucotrichopora (White oak), Quercus baloot ( Holly oak), Quercus glauca ( Japanese Oak), Quercus floribunda ( Moru oak),Quercus semecarpifolia (Kharsu Oak ) are seen in forests of Jammu.Quercus robur is seen planted in Dachigam area of Srinagar. Cypress, cupressus sempervirens and Royal Palm, Roystonea regia stand majestic in all old parks and gardens.

Trees are great asset to our surroundings as they add to aesthetic charm, fight vehicular pollution, act as green lungs and do carbon sequestration. Trees when in bloom attract birds, bees, butterflies and beetles for accomplishing pollination to effect seed production for perpetuating their progeny. Trees keep surroundings clean, green and healthy for human beings and add glory and charm to our survival mileu, God's greatest gifts indeed.

Kashmir Theatre Festival 2011

'Myon Shoosh'-My Love- Whisper the majestic Kashmir Mountains to me, opening their tessellated imposing arms, in a bear hug. I immerse into their beauty. The prickly needles of emerald hued conifers outlining their conical bodies, hurt me no more, they bring tickles at first, a smile and then a rolling laugh.  It has been a quarter of a century since I last set foot in this wondrous land. 'Maayi  Barut Istaqbaal' - Warm Welcome, 'Khush Aamdeed' - Happy Tidings, they murmur softly in my ear.

I raise my hand in a silent salute to the Jammu Kashmir Film Makers and Artists Co-operative Ltd (JKFMAC), the organizers who have brought the 10-day 'Kashmir Comedy Theatre Festival -2011' to this paradisiacal valley in the throes of tumult, as Shabbir Haider the Secretary General and CEO of JKFMAC puts it, "Where smiles come at a premium and laughter is in danger of growing extinct".

A whole generation of Kashmiris turning old at 23 years, growing up in lurking fear and a daily call of attending dirges along with their elders, are completely cut off from what 'normal' childhood, adolescence and teenage years meant for others in India. For this generation it is so special to feel the emotion of hilarity, few have encountered or tasted in their lifetimes.

I feel there could be no better time. The 'Amarnath Yatra' is in full bloom albeit 'under the shadow of the gun', that provides pre-set security cover for the 'laughter challenge'.  

Serene, languid, doppling and dancing Dal Lake in Srinagar shows no sign of any fracas, smoothly letting the 'shikaras' or oblong romantic boats, slide on its beautiful belly, poked off and on by the paddle and rippling in mirth...

At Jammu and Srinagar airports, the almost embarrassing body search, the feel of metal detectors and human hands (even though female) feel like an amorous encroachment of privacy, not once, as at most airports, but three tier and times. Add to that, is the quick pick of a lady's 'tampon' by a security guard and askance expression of suspicion followed by giggles when explained.

Strange, but some emotions of glee are traceable everywhere. I brush aside realms of media reports on turmoil and blood-baths to a 'fake sting operation' feeling some conspiracies lurking beneath the surface to bring disrepute to this virtual heaven on earth.

The grandeur of the inaugural ceremony on June 25th can hardly be gauged from the periphery of the venue of Sher-i-Kashmir International Convention Complex (SKICC) with gun-toting, quick response teams and armoured vehicles lined up, outlined with camouflaged-capped sharp shooters.

Inside, however, the cyan hued 'pedicured' lawns and lofty elusive Chinar trees are busy spreading their enchanted halcyon beauty to the surroundings, where guzzling laughter and fragrances of colors will rule for more than a week.

Ravinder Kaul, globally renowned theatre critic, has a wonderful take on comedy and satire in theatre. He puts it thus, "The man who slug out the first 'abuse' has done a great service to humanity. He has inadvertently given an alternative to human kind to vent out anger other than to invite the rival for a 'bloody-duel' to end the argument. His displeasure therefore has shed no blood or caused no bodily harm to anyone".

And continues, "In theatre, especially in 'satire', an alternate way lends itself to vent out pent-up anger against the government policies, inadequacies of administration, all pervasive corruption, excesses of armed forces and of dogged militants with their quirky logic; creating havoc, deeply affecting and attacking the lives and vital ethos of Kashmiris".

"Kashmiri-a peace loving community, is facing a whole gamut of daily life-threatening situations, robbing them of their privacy, peace and progress. The massive extent of corruption deprives and saps their 'celebrated strengths' and relegates their development in multiple spheres, to a mere trickle. For them, comedy and satire has come as a whiff of fresh mountain wind to air their grievances."

The ceremony of the book release "Theatre Akh Tarruf", authored by veteran theatre personality and  Additional Director General, Doordarshan, Ashok Jailkhani is equally 'theatrical', albeit in the positive sense. Seeds of 'Issbad' are touched upon the heads and shoulders of the author, the chief guest and others at this auspicious occasion, as a tradition practiced by both Hindu and Muslim Kashmiris, and then thrown over the simmering coals in a 'Kangri' or a traditional vessel kept burning for warmth in the winter chill. A 'pious' fragrance emanates from the burning seeds and envelopes the surroundings, warding off evil spirits.

Thereafter, the Governor of this beauteous state Mr. NN Vohra unties the ribbon on the book, declares the Festival open with lighting of the ceremonial lamp to the flash of festoons and a swirl of colors of rainbow 'phirans'- a typical Kashmiri garment, and matching swinging jewellery, classically Kashmiri.

It is 'Bumbro, Bumbro' time, a melody, as ten lovely lasses of Kashmir roll their 'mehandied'-henna patterned  hands-and lift themselves to melt into a frenzy of dance, bringing the audiences in close clasp of what one could say 'befikri'-unmindful of worries.

Jammu girls match their Kashmiri counterparts in obvious competition with gusto on a Dogri dance and song and steep the audience into an untamed, full-blooded frolic.

'Local Taxes Extra'- the opening play releases the first choking veil of curtains restricting the overenthusiastic actors waiting to showcase their talent for the Comedy Festival.

Written by Dr Sohan Lal Koul and directed by Ayash Arif of the Kalidas Theater Group, the play revolves on social issues facing a Kashmiri Pandit couple Bhushan Lal and Usha Rani who fall on the mercy of a quirky landlord out to take advantage of their plight in a series of hilarious situations wherein the servant Gash Ram too develops a taste for intrigues to create misunderstandings between the couple.

That the play in Kashmiri language sustains the attention of the State Governor, one known to have just a formal flavor of the Kashmiri language and constrained for time as dignitaries are wont to say for effect, speaks volumes about the histrionic prowess of the actors on stage. Of more significance, however, is a largely Kashmiri 'Muslim' audience glued to their seats watching the play with all Kashmiri Pandit characters. It seems to me, to be the true bearing or 'icing' of the lurking agony of separation of these two ethnic communities both of whom claim Kashmir as their rightful home and hearth.

It is this spirit of communal harmony and a composite culture that truly spells the values of the lush valley wherefrom many a Bollywood movie scripts have taken their first cues of unbridled love.

Kashmiri Pandits have been pushed, evacuated and left to fend for themselves due to hatred of alien mercenaries in cahoots with some local hawks and hardliners. Their Muslim brethren still hold them dear in unconditional love, that is what the attendance and attention at this Festival reinforces.

The Festival continues for the next ten days, bringing in fun and tears of joyous laughter. The themes revolve around overall corruption in high places and at the grassroots level. Even state run 'Doordarshan' is not spared to bring in guffaws while a play by tiny-tots takes the audiences to matchless taste of twists and turns in the 'kiddy' world.

Artistes include Bhands from Akingaam and Wathoora, the Akingaam Bhands' group being in existence for many centuries, having been elaborately mentioned in Sir Walter Lawrence's seminal book 'The Valley of Kashmir' (1895).  As it began, the Festival ends with another hilarious tale revolving around a Kashmiri Pandit family. 'Dastaar', the play, has already become a part of the popular folklore of Kashmir with legendary actor Hriday Nath Gurtoo's inimitable dialogue 'Dastaaras karizam raachh' -'Protect My Turban'-albeit 'Honour'; on the tip of everyone's tongue.

That Gurtoo died in a miserable condition in a migrant camp in Udhampur soon after being forced to migrate from his happy dwellings in Kashmir, in the early 1990s, has in no way dimmed his creation but rather highlighted the plight of some of the 'Jewels of Kashmir' being ostracized from their beloved land and perishing in misery.

The Festival comes to an end, the armored vehicles and sharp shooters leave the venue, but it has successfully scattered the seeds of tangible merriment in the entire valley.

My eyes scan the picturesque landscape and rivulets flow down my cheeks, I feel a tug, as if a dear one says 'Maty'e Rozu Dama Roz Dariyam Chany'e Lol Re'! 'My love, stay a while longer'. However agony of separation from Kashmir is lesser than the wish that Almighty may shower His choicest blessings and cheer to this Land of the Gods.

In their forlorn imploration, asking me to return to the valley blooming with spring flowers 'Rosh wala myani dilbaro, poshan bahaar aav, yoori walo'-- I peer to look for smiles down from the window of the plane. The arc that begins at one mountain top and, after covering the flat valley, ends at another mountain top, seems like a broad smiley like smile. Today, even the sun has been veiled by clouds on the top to spread the huge glowing smiley that I look for in the crinkly as well as  reddish lips of Kashmiris blessed with unsurpassed beauty and as I place my hand on my heart it leaps and cheers 'Aall izzz well'!

By RASHMI TALWAR 

Hangul in Kashmir

Hope has kindled for the survival of the nearly extinct Kashmir antelope ‘Hangul’. The preliminary findings of the census of Hangul conducted in Kashmir in March 2011 have shown an increase in their numbers. The state Forest Minister Mian Altaf Ahmad while reviewing the conservation of Hangul in Srinagar recently revealed that census report of the Wildlife Institute of India (WII) has put the number of Hanguls at 218 in Dachigam and adjoining areas.

The Department of Wild Life Protection of Jammu and Kashmir Government in collaboration with the WII has been regularly monitoring the population of Hangul in the Dachigam National Park and the adjoining areas since 2004. The last census in 2009 had put their number at 175 with an increase in male, female and fawn ratio. The wildlife authorities had that time said that it boded well for a sustained population growth of Hangul and had described it as a sign of hope.

Critically endangered Hangul, a sub-species of red deer, is found only in Kashmir. Kashmir stag is distinct with its male species bestowed with magnificent antlers with 11 to 16 points and long hair on their necks while their female counterparts have none of these features. Nevertheless, both change their brownish fur with seasons and also with age. In the beginning of the 20th century the red deer existed in thousands. They lived in groups of 2 to 18 in dense riverine forests, high valleys, and mountains of Kashmir valley. Unfortunately, their habitats were destroyed, their pastures over-grazed by domestic livestock, and became victims of poaching.

Hangul is confined today to Dachigam National Park at elevations of 3,035 meters on the outskirts of state’s summer capital Srinagar. According to an aged and former wildlife official Mohammad Qasim Wani, at the time of Independence there were around 3,000 Hangul spread over various parts of the valley. He recalled that he had seen quite big herds of Hangul in Kulgam and Pahalgam in South Kashmir and Uri, Lolab, Kupwara, Gurez, Teetwal, and other places in western and northern parts of the valley.

Similarly, older people living around Dachigam National Park recall that the area had plenty of Hangul who would sneak into their fields to eat crops. Wildlife officials confirm that the National Park had as many as 800 Hangul at one time. Mohammad Qasim Wani laments that Hangul became victim of poachers’ greed and the indiscriminate killings for sport that wiped out the Kashmir stag from most of the areas in the valley and taking it to the verge of extinction. Moreover, human encroachments into forests have considerably increased since 1947 resulting in fragmentation of the habitat of Hangul.

The first ever census of the Hanguls by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources was held about four decades back in early 1970s which sounded alarm bells as their numbers were found to be mere 170. The State Government initiated several measures to save the Hangul from extinction. These included the enactment of Wildlife Act and the setting up of a full-fledged wildlife department. These and other steps had started giving great results and the Hangul population increased to over 340 by 1980.

But unfortunately, the outbreak of militancy over two decades back set the clock back, while the Wildlife Department staff feared to venture out into the Hangul habitat some nomads reportedly took undue advantage of the situation and encroached with their sheep into the designated grazing grounds of Hangul. The Wildlife Institute of India shockingly found a steep drop in their number ranging somewhere between 117 and 160 making the Kashmir stag critically endangered. However, with situation on the ground improving in recent years, the conditions for Hangul’s survival are changing for the better.

The three-member team of the Wildlife Institute of India during the recent census spotted Hangul outside the Dachigam National Park in nearby Khanmoh, Khrew, and Brain. The Institute has suggested that besides these areas adjoining Chasmashahi, Nishat and Wangat should also be incorporated in the conservation area of the endangered deer species. Encouraged by the latest census findings, the Department of Wildlife Protection jointly with the Wildlife Trust of India, New Delhi has initiated the survey of Hangul all over Kashmir valley to know the actual position regarding the distribution of Hangul population in natural habitat. Meanwhile, an ambitious ‘Save Hangul’ project is being implemented which includes survey of the Hangul’s natural habitat along with that of the leopard and black bear. The five-year project will make use of the latest wild animal photograph technology, including the use of satellite imageries and geographical information systems.

The other features of the Rs. 1.67 crore project includes artificial breeding of the highly endangered deer for which a Conservation Breeding Centre is being set up with necessary infrastructure on about five acres area at Shikargagh in Tral with monetary assistance from the Central Zoo Authority. Construction of another such breeding centre is in progress at Darwudri-Mamar. According to the Chief Wildlife Warden of Jammu & Kashmir, A K Srivastava on its completion around ten male and female Hanguls in the ratio 3:7 would be put up in the centre for breeding. Once the fawn grow, they would be installed with radio collars and released into the wild to monitor their movements. Experts say the centre would also help in building a genetic stock of Hangul in case the species gets extinct due to some natural calamity or any other reason. The programme is likely to be expanded further depending upon its success.

It is also proposed under the project to upgrade the natural domain of Hangul through reforestation and also initiate measures to conserve soil and improve water management and develop pastures. Anti-poaching measures would be strengthened too and encroachment into Hangul pastures prevented. But experts say much will depend upon the participation of local community in the conservation efforts. Without people’s involvement and political will of the Government, Hangul’s future would remain in doldrums. There is already awareness about it in certain sections of local community and that has acted as a silver lining. This needs to be broad based and strengthened to conserve Hangul in its last bastion, who is a glorious constituent of Kashmir’s natural heritage.

worlds highest motorable pass

World's highest motorable pass are ocated in Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir in Ladakh. some time back Ladakh used to be an alien place for us and we had only heard of the great warrier General Zorawar Singh's expeditions to Tibet through Ladakh through our elders.

Khardung La (La means “ Mountain Pass ” in Tibetan language) is located at an altitude of 18,380 feet above sea level. The local pronunciation is "Khardong La" or "Khardzong La," but, as with most names in Ladakh, the spelling varies. Historically, it is quite important, as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Chinese Central Asia . The pass itself lies North of Leh and is the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra Valleys (the latter is home to the Siachen Base camp). A branch of the famous Silk Route used to pass through Khardung La centuries back. The Yakandis, Tsaqandis and Mongolians used to bring merchandise like silk goods, opium, and carpets to Leh, which has been a central business place. And in exchange they would take Indian cotton clothes, raw cotton, sugar, gur etc.

About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen in the area north of the pass, mute witnesses to history. During World War II there was a futile attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.

When Ladakh came under British rule, a Joint Commissioner was appointed during 1867 to look after the administration. The Britishers also gave due attention to this route and maintained the bridle path over Khardung La. The motorable road was constructed during sixties and was opened to motor vehicles in 1988 and has since seen many automobile, motorbike and mountain biking expeditions. The wars with Pakistan in 1965 and 1971, and the Siachen Glacier issue gave further importance to the Khardung La road.

The journey to Khardung La from Leh is 37 kms and takes about one-and-half-hours to reach. The first 24 km as far as the South Pullu check point, are paved. From there to the North Pullu check point about 15 km beyond the pass the roadway is primarily loose rock, dirt, and occasional rivulets of snow melt.

From North Pullu into the Nubra Valley , the road is very well maintained (except in a very few places where washouts or falling rock occur). Hired vehicles (2 and 4-wheel-drive), heavy trucks, and motorcycles regularly travel into the Nubra Valley , though special permits may need to be arranged for travellers to make the journey.

At south Pullu an army TCP stops all the vehicles and an entry is made in their registers. If you are moving only up to Khardung La, you don’t need an Inner Line Permit (the permit to visit some prohibited areas). But if you are planning to move across Khardung La, then an ILP is compulsory and it can be obtained either from the Leh Deputy Commissioner or the SSP’s office. ( Dal Lake )

In South Pullu , one finds some facilities that seem to be a luxury in this difficult terrain - a tea shop, rest rooms, hot water etc. One can never imagine that sipping a hot cup of tea can be so heavenly in cold dizzy heights.Khardung La is a mini tourist stop with jeeps and bikes, and even a souvenir shop! Most travellers go up to Khardung La only to see the world’s highest motorable pass, buy some souvenirs from the souvenir shop, click some pictures and come back.

There is a temple of Lord Shiva at the top. The soldiers crossing the Pass stop here and pay their obeisance to the Lord of the Himalayas . The Tibetan Religious Flags with mantras on them flutter atop the Pass. The general belief here is that with the wind, these mantras spread to all the directions taking with them good positive vibrations.

There is a "Rinchen tea stall" at K-Top that serves some high altitude tea and snacks - mainly Maggi noodles. Other than that the main thing to do here is to take a photo next to the “World’s Highest Motorable Road ” sign. Acute Mountain Sickness is a serious risk and visitors are not recommended to spend too long at the top. But needless to say, the views from the top are stunning. Due to its sheer height, the pass gives you jaw dropping views of deep valleys and narrow twisting roads and high altitude traffic jams.

On the other side, after crossing the Pass is North Pullu . From South Pullu to the North Pullu check-point about 10 kms beyond the pass the roadway is primarily loose rock, dirt, and occasional rivulets of melted snow, mainly because the Pass remains snowbound all the time.

It is very difficult to cross the Pass in winter, especially for big vehicles like the Stallion of the army, as many feet of snow accumulate here. And then the snow freezes on the road making the vehicle prone to skidding. Chains are tied to the tyres to prevent the vehicles from skidding off the road and also facilitate them to move through the snow.Though Khardung La receives heavy snowfall, the Himank (Border Roads Organization) keeps it open round the year as all the essential supplies to Siachen troopers go from here only.

If you are traveling to Khardung La, the ideal time is summer. Do take an ample stock of batteries with you as extreme cold conditions tend to exhaust your batteries. And don’t forget to cover yourself well, especially your head as one faces drowsiness, hangovers, high altitude fever, vomiting when traveling through this high altitude region.Road connectivity to the Pass is through Manali and Srinagar and daily flights operate from Delhi and bi-weekly from Jammu . From Leh, a daily bus service to Nubra Valley plies through Khardung La.

Swami Nandbab Ji

The vale of Kashmir perpetually shines in its pristine glory and is blessed to have been a place hallowed by great saints and men of deep insight. This place though ravaged by the travails of time, even now, holds aloft the light of spirituality and mysticism in its fragrant ambrosial sands of time. The beauty of subtle celestial vibrations still pervades the land. Among the myriads of spiritual giants who attained true self realization, Swami Nandbab Ji is regarded as a 'venerable intercession' between him and his God as a bridge for humanity to touch the trail of cosmic consciousness. ( ShANKARACHARYA Temple )

Many anecdotes about his life have been recorded and almost all of them point to his divine attainments and mastery over the four 'fruits of life'. The bliss that emanated from his being was for everybody near to uphold and feel blessed. Outwardly he sported no signs of a darvesh such as beard, jap-mala since he was way beyond the idea of body consciousness. His magnetic persona reflected the aphorism of "Tat tvam asi" - you are that? That infinite Atman is not limited by sensory bioscope of the ephemeral world. At the same time he also knew that it would require a superhuman effort from an ordinary human to transcend Mahamaya and hence preached no obscure philosophy but lent his personal help to obviate man's material and spiritual trials. This clearly points out his concern for humanity which could not comprehened lofty philosophy but like smaller boats needed a big ship for them to overcome the wirls and potential dangers of life. What separates this man of God from many other saints is his uniqueness to alleviate human suffering instantly. He was clairaudient and clairvoyant-could hear and see things beforehand. According to the recorded version of Justice J N Bhat, a few anecdotes about Swami Nandlal would substantiate the persona of this sage. Nandbab would always pay attention to keeping himself tidy with daily morning bath through regarding food he would be abstemious. He would talk in parables and generally the words seemed incomprehensible but soon it would be realized that he saw before him events that were about to happen or would happen later.Oft times saints and mystics behave in mysterious ways to convey a message and at the same time to accentuate the transitoriness of the material world. Nandbab was no different in such strides of mystical communion that upfront look strange and devoid of normal sense. His empathy with fellow human beings was revealed in several situations when suffering persons who were terminally ill and spurned by medical specialists miraculously got cured through his benign gaze. Though he didn't seem to speak directly to a person, his spiritually murtured seekers; he evinced interest in their personal matters in order that they don't get dragged back to the muck of the material world. He protected his chosen flock like a mother rendering personal attention to her child's well being.It is difficult to fathom the mysterious ways of a profound mystic with a stature as high as Nandbab, for the perceptions that we tend to hold based on the glamour of the world are often foggy, coloured by prejudices. Thus it is appropriate for us to prostrate before such a mystic and entreat him to bestow on us clarity of vision. Saints serve not from the standpoint of personal seeking but a broader cause in order to open our inner eye. They are intoxicated by a state of supreme love and strive to sacrifice themselves for the good of many. A saint’s whole life prods us with the vedantic inquiry. "Tattakim" what next! What next! The great thinker Abraham Maslow puts it very well when he states that every human has four basic needs - those of food, protection, recognition and self-actualization. Of these self-realization should be the supreme aim of every true spiritual seeker.  ( Yajjopaveet Ceremony )

Our scriptures state that the subtler an object is the more is its capacity to hold energy. Body is gross; it has muscular energy which looks great from outside but that is not necessarily a sign real strength. Nerve fiber is very subtle, it holds the fine power of thinking and is a testimony to the strength of great thinking. Individual soul is the subtlest and an infinite energy reservoir. It augurs well for us to shift our attention slowly and gradually from gross manifestations to the subtler ones in order to comprehend our own true nature. May the spark that Nandbab has lit in our hearts during his earthly sojourn continue to guide us and help us in realizing our own true potential. May everybody of our life be a festival of lights! Hallowed be thy name-the omniscient Nandbab-the mystic extraordinary!

To quote Shamboo Nath Dhar who served in J&K Accountant General's office, Nandbab made a sudden entry one day into office and signalled with his staff in hand to a junior clerk to occupy a vacant seat nearby. Shaken by the attire of the swami, the employee complied and occupied the chair. Within a few days, he was promoted out of turn as accountant in Radio Kashmir. This is a pointer to the sage's clairvoyance.
Nandbab was observed to dress up as in a battle uniform with an English hat on during the 1947 raid in Kashmir. And during that time he would draw out his stick in different directions as if he were someone to save the native land. During the invasion of Kashmir by Pakistan, people at a place where petrified to hear the sound of saber jet flying over the city. Nandbab assured them that the enemy would be kept in check but consternation was more than real for people to feel satiated. He calmed everybody that if they required his assurance on a stamp paper he would willingly provide. This raised an air of reassurance in the audience and the ritual ceremony continued. It was soon seen that despite best attempts by the enemy, Srinagar Airport did not bear a scar from the attack.It is also reported that during Bangladesh conflict, Nandbab was seen very worried for a couple of days and later he suddenly seemed to revel in joy and murmured with himself, "Everything is alright now." He also asked a person to prepare tasty Kashmiri food at that moment. Next day on All India Radio it was announced that Pakistani military had surrendered en-masse to India in Bangladesh.Nandbab was always seen scribbling something on chits of paper which people would call parvanas. Parvanas were some sort of foretelling of events about to materialize. There is a reported incident about a young man of average intelligence being given one such chit and told that he has been offered a post. Many people irrespective of faiths and age were blessed to receive these chits which indicated their soon-to-be-good fortune.        ( Holy shrine of Shri Hudh Mata )

Contemporary to his times there was a towering spiritual personality staying nearby - the great Bhagvaan Gopinathji. A day before Bhagvaanji attained Mahasamadhi Nandbab was crying inconsolably and shedding tears as if possessed by some grief. When a few people interjected and asked him the reason, he said, "The king of rishis is going away and leaving a huge worked on my shoulders."

In conclusion, I should add that Sadgurus remove "darkness" solve very difficult problems faced by their devotees, cheer them up with their sweet and soothing words. Nandbab was certainly a godly person endowed with spiritual siddhis of a rare order.

Historical Temple Nara Nag in Kashmir

The Valley of Kashmir is known not only for its lush green meadows, snow-capped mountains but also for its historical and religious places. There is a temple complex called Nara Nag which evokes awe and is a devotee's delight. There is a small hamlet called wangath which lies in the Ganderbal district - 50 kms from Kashmir on Srinagar - Leh National Highway. The highway bifurcates at a particular place and there is a sign board which reads Wangath. The village of Wangat lies along the dense forests on the periphery of Bhuteshwara mountain range along the terrace of the Kanka River, a tributary of Sindh River. Five miles or eight Kms to the east of Wangath or Vasishthashrama, higher up in the Sind Valley, lies the scared Nara Nag. According to the traditions the water of the spring comes from the Gangabal Lake, as the spring is located at the foot of the Bhutsher or Bhuteshwara, a spur of the Haramukha peaks. They are two groups of temples situated at a distance of about 100 yards from each other. The moonlight in the valley of the Nara Nag is a mesmerizing experience in the month of November as the snow on the higher peaks reflects the full moonlight in the sky, beauty is further added by the tortuous course of the Kanka River torrent whose white and foaming water epitomize the moon silver light on the earth. The fast gale, silver moon light and sound of the gushing water of the Kanka River is a commemorative sight for the Nara Nag group of temples. The small tank with perennial water of Nara Nag has refreshing, digestive properties. At a further distance there is a temple dedicated to Bhairva. The western group identified with the temple is dedicated to Lord Siva. Lalitaditya Muktapida eighth century King of Kashmir erected a temple of Lord Shiva here. The King Avantivarman paid a visit and donated a pedestal with a silver conduct for bathing at Bhutsher. These temples are built of grayish granite found in abundance in neighborhood and their different architectural entities as evidently prove that they are of a different era. The Sodaratirtha referred in the Nilamata Purana is among the scared tiratha in Kashmir Valley presently known as Nara Nag. Till the last quarter of 20th century, out of religious beliefs, local Kashmir Pandits after consecrating the ashes of their relatives in the Gangabal Lake come to perform the last rites for the peace of departed soul. The first group consists of seven temples, the largest temple of the group has two entrances opposite to each other in north-east and south-west direction. The temple is built of huge rectangular stones laid in dry masonry with inter locking system. The interior is square and ceiling is domical built of horizontal kanjur stones and the apex stone crowned by a full blown lotus. The galvanized sheets roofing is of later addition. All the temples had conical stone roof of a single stone, the evidence of which are available on the site. The center is an unpaved square space for missing image of principle diety in the interior. The closed doors embellished with trefoil arches and pediment reflect the Greco-Roman influence on the Kashmiri Temple architecture. The closed arches decorated with square topped arches meant to carry sculptures. Besides the main temple, there are six other miniature shrines placed in an unsymmetrical manner in the compound intended as subsidiary shrines. These subsidiary shrines were probably erected by various groups of pilgrims as a mark of reverence after returning from Gangabal Lake in form of "votive offering" after successful accomplishment of the hazardous ascent to Gangabal Lake. About one hundred meters below towards the River Bed , the second group of temples is enclosed by two chambered huge gateway of similar size and shape as of Avantipur temple. The roofless two chambered gateway were once supported by four pillars, the base of which are in situ. In this group there are about six small roofless temples with high plinths. The main shrine has only huge arched entrance and other three sides have closed doors with trefoil arches encased in triangular encasing. The ceiling of the grabha-griha or the Cella rounded off with rubble lime motar, probably of the later period, converting the square into a circle originally the triangular slabs springs the domical roof by corners of Kanjur stones. The three exterior trefoil niches once had a large image which is no more extant. A huge rectangular tank scooped out from a single rock into a water tank exists on the south face of the principal temple. The whole group encircled is by the remains of rectangular wall of huge stones of which the foundation could be traced, together with several base of pillars and fluted pillars similar to the Avantiswamin Temple, just opposite to the main entrance. There is a large platform with evidence of twelve pedestals of pillars, eight in number four on the longer side and four on the shorter side. The flight of stairs is built between the central pair of columns facing the first group of temple. The 100` ft long by 67` broad pillared hall is a remarkable architecture feat of the whole group of temples. The temples were plundered in the days of Jyasimha in Kalhana's time. The temple of Naranag suffered many misfortunes as mentioned in Khalhana's Rajatarangani during the reign of Sangramaraja (11th century). The temple- was plundered by Bhandesvara, a Minister of the King. For the period of the reign of Uchchala (12th century) a conflagration caused much damage to the building and during the reign of Jayasimha Hayavadava(12th century), a rebel minister also attacked these temples. Nara Nag is the base camp of the Gangabal Lake' it takes 8-10 hour on foot or on horse back to reach the lake. During the June-Oct the village acts as host for thousands of foreign tourists who visit the beautiful Gangabal Lake.

Lush Green Valley of Gulmarg

Gulmarg, located as a bowl-shaped small valley at 8,500 feet (2730 meters) in Pir Panchal basin is a preferred destination of matchless beauty. Also known as the meadow of flowers, Gulmarg’s lush green grasses with cool breezes coming from surrounding dense forests of tall conifers on mountains with snowy peaks creates a fabulous experience that no tourist visiting Kashmir can afford to miss. And as winter approaches, the entire landscape changes from the bright green slopes of summers into the shinning white skiing track area beckoning winter sports lovers and adventurers to its gentle snow covered slopes. In fact, it is skiing that defines Gulmarg now-a-days. Gulmarg is said to have been discovered as a leisure spot by one of the rulers of Kashmir, Yusuf Shah Chak, who along with his poetess Queen Habba Khatoon would visit the place. Mughal Emperor Jehangir with great aesthetic sense too well liked the place. British were so fascinated by Gulmarg that it became their favourite sports jaunt on this side of Suez both during summer and winter. Besides setting up the world’s highest golf course at Gulmarg, they also made it an important ski resort with the introduction of Skiing almost at the same time as it had started in the Alps. The Ski Club of India was set up in 1927 and ski competitions were held at the nearby Khilanmarg with its pony track from Gulmarg kept open throughout the winter. The Christmas and Easter competitions evolved as the two major events. Winter sports activities including skiing, which vanished from the area with the departure of British from India in 1947, were revived by the high Altitude Warfare School of Indian Army set up at Gulmarg. And after 1965 with the union Tourism Ministry’s intervention, Gulmarg started evolving into a Ski Resort of international standards. The Gulmarg Winter Sports Project was launched with UNDP’s assistance. Soon a large number of skiers mostly from abroad started thronging mountain slopes in the area especially to enjoy a white Christmas in the Himalayas in this region. Many of the winter sports lovers would make a four-hour climb to top of the mountain, “Apharwat” for a ski run that facilitates a fascinating view of the Himalayas and also far away Karakorum ranges including the peaks of Nanga Parbat and K-2. A National Ski School was set up which started turning out qualified national ski instructors and in turn improved job opportunities in the area. Work also began for putting in place a Gondola from Gulmarg to Apharwat at an elevation of 3980 meters to coincide its completion with the proposed 1990 Asian Winter Games here. But unfortunately, all projections went haywire with the outbreak of militancy in Kashmir valley at the beginning of 1990 and the dream Gondola cable car project could be completed only in 2005-06 making it the highest ski resort served by lift in the entire world. Designed by Poma of France, Gulmarg’s Gondola offers skiers and snowboarders a bigger lift-serviced vertical rise than any ski resort in the United States. As an idea of its scale, the vertical rise of Gulmarg’s Gondola is on par with any comparable single lift at Whistler-Blackcomb, which is famed for having the biggest vertical rise of any ski resort in North America. With already a part of required infrastructure on stream, Gulmarg and its adjoining areas have the potential of emerging as the world’s most preferred destination in the near future. Its advantages are that unlike many European winter resorts Gulmarg has better snow line, is not overcrowded and is easily approachable with a little more than an hour’s drive from the nearest city Srinagar which has good board and lodging facilities and an airport of almost international standards. However, there are certain mandatory requirements for operating a safe world-class ski resort in which Gulmarg and other winter ski sports arenas in the valley still lack. These include machinery for grooming the slopes, avalanche controllers and ski patrollers for rescue. In Europe several private institutions and voluntary organizations specialize in meeting these mandatory requirements but in absence of such facilities in the valley, the government needs to fill in the vacuum as it requires capital and expertise in a big way. In the meantime, ski-mountaineering, cross country skiing, and open air ice-skating, which need the least infrastructure, can be promoted. Kashmir valley abounds in virgin and mostly unexplored cross-country stretches that include the trails from Gulmarg to Yusmarg via Tos Maidan, valley behind Kungwattan-Ahrabal range and Lidder valley to Sindh valley. They are fairly vast cross-country areas and a number of groups can simultaneously operate in them. The slopes in Gulmarg varying between 8,700 and 10,500 feet make the ski runs the highest in India. It is noteworthy that heli-skiing is another winter sport that is quite popular at Gulmarg, which boasts of being the only heli-skiing resort in Asia. Ever since the hosting of the first National Winter Games in 1998, Gulmarg has been the venue for winter sport festivals. In fact, winter sports in Kashmir are not just games of adventure. They are part of the festivals organized during winter to add to the fun offered by snowfall. These include races, contests and fests that are widely observed across the state and involve the participation of locals and tourists in large numbers. Locals say that the arrival of tourists means livelihood for them. Acting as guides or ski instructors to the tourists, each of them can earn anything between Rs. 200 to Rs. 500 per day.The villagers operating as ponnywallas during summer turn into sledge pullers during winter and do good business as they charge around Rs. 130 per hour from the tourists to show them around the Gulmarg valley. Their only demand is that the government should ensure that the tourists keep thronging the area and that would make their livelihood safe.The hotel owners also agree that Gulmarg has the potential to develop as an all year tourist destination but the state government needs to promote it more aggressively within and outside the country. Gulmarg also boasts of a gorgeous green golf course that happens to be the world’s highest too. Its 18-hole golf course has long been famous for golfing. Being a course of Par 72, the Gulmarg golf course is good enough to hold any professional level events. The records of almost a century-old historic Gulmarg Golf Club make a fascinating reading. The first Golf championship was held here in 1922.The Clubhouse itself, reminiscent of a Swiss chalet with its quaintly sloping roof, has a rare old character. Development of winter tourism would extend the tourism activity from the present 90 days in summer to almost entire year. As most of the activities connected with winter tourism are service oriented, it has appreciable scope for employment at various levels.It would also help in making the winter sports popular among the locals that could eventually produce international class winter sportspersons from the region as is the case with the Europe’s skiing nations Austria and Switzerland who produce World’s best skiers and mountaineers. Prior to the outbreak of turmoil in nineties, local students and youth from the nearby villages came to Gulmarg for training in different winter sports events. Some of them excelled as sportspersons in their own right and participated in Asian Winter games and Olympics. Many of them eventually got employed in different jobs at the hill resorts.India boasts of a huge young population and they, including the youth from the state, would make the best clients for winter tourism if the habit of holidaying both for leisure, fun and adventure were cultivated among them. The local youth has also got to be made partners in this progress with easy assistance to set up infrastructure ventures. All this will need a major national effort.

kashmir a Hub for Mountaineering Adventure Tourism

The inaugural function of the long gold celebrations of jubilee of year of the Indian base of Alpinism was held in Srinagar May 15। A pleiad the climbing famous ones attended the function. Kashmir was selected because the appointment because of the wide possibilities of adventure which the state must offer. Earlier in the first week of May a team of six Members of the Commission of access and conservation of mountain of the international union of Alpine associations achieved an excursion length of week of valley of Kashmir including/understanding a voyage runs to assemble Kolahoi in Pahalgam. The team was carried out by President Robert Pettigrew and members included of the Commission starting from Great Britain, of France, of Spain, of Italy, and Belgium. The Commission is occupied ensuring the access to the mountaineers various ranges of mountain in the whole world. The mandate of the Commission of access also implies the conservation of the mountains and the conservation of the ecology of the sector. It is for the first time that a so foreign team implied in activities of adventure visited areas distant from mountain of Kashmir in the end during two decades. It significant because of the unfavourable bulletins of information of voyage on Kashmir is published by various foreign offices in Europe. Once asked in an interaction of media on these bulletins of unfavourable information of voyage, Robert while joking noticed that the mountaineers do not listen to their foreign offices and are large takers of risk. The valley has two distinct mountains, Haramukh which resembles the Kailash frame and is historically the most crowned mountain. The other is Kolahoi also called Matterhorn of Kashmir which was in the past the voyage and to raise it of favourite for the climbing foreigners. Lord John Hunt the chief in British forwarding successful to assemble Everest and Mr Edmund Hillary, the climbing one celebrates had also been in Kolahoi before beginning their famous forwarding of the world. In fact Hunt lord said to me in London in semi years ' 70 which it had does not assemble Kolahoi in his first attempt and fact him a remark to measure it before going to Everest. Mr Edmund Hillary had even visited it still with his wife for a nostalgic voyage in semi years ' 80.

AYURVEDA HOLIDAYS

Ayurveda of India is the world's oldest system of healing and revitalizing the body practiced by the spiritual Rishis, who laid the foundations of the Vedic civilization in India, by organizing the fundamentals of life into proper systems. Vedas, especially the fourth Vedas namely Atharvaveda, are the main source of knowledge in this field. Thereafter, the art of Ayurveda had spread to Tibet, China, Mongolia, Korea and Sri Lanka, carried over by the Buddhist monks traveling to those lands. Ayurveda therefore is not simply a health care system but a form of lifestyle adopted to maintain perfect balance and harmony within the human existence that go into the making of the constitution of each individual, called Prakriti. Ayurveda thus offers a unique blend of science and philosophy that balances the physical, mental, emotional and spiritual components necessary for holistic health.