Chinar Tree in Kashmir valley

As autumn, the golden yellow season of Kashmir, draws to a close, the majestic chinar trees are at their fiery best. Their crimson coloured leaves - so rightly dubbed 'flames of the chinar' - lend a fairytale glow to the scenic valley.From green to yellow through crimson before they fall to the ground, the leaves of the chinar trees have fired many an imagination for prose and verse.

"Che Nar (What fire)?" - these words of a Persian poet who has visited the valley in the past are still resounding in the majestic chinar gardens of NaseemBagh in the Kashmir University campus on the banks of the Dal Lake in Srinagar and other places.Native to Persia, Italy, Belgium, America and Greece, chinar trees were planted on a large scale across the length and breadth of the valley by Mughal emperor Jahangir during his reign from 1605 to 1627 though the origin of the plant in Kashmir is believed to be much earlier than the Mughal period.Later rulers declared it a protected tree as it became a symbol of Kashmir's heritage and beauty. Felling of the chinar or even lopping off its branches is forbidden by law.

A 627-year-old chinar tree planted by Sufi saint Syed Abul Qasim Shah Hamdani in 1374 in central Kashmir's Badgam district is believed to be the oldest of the specie in the world."The magic created by the 'fires of the Chinar' because of its crimson leaves towards the end of the autumn season is something one has to see to believe," Bashir Ahmad War, a retired veterinarian, said."As dozens of the mighty chinar trees surround the visitor with each one of them radiating its fiery brilliance, the spectacle is simply breathtaking. Anybody looking at them from a distance thinks the entire tree is on fire," he added.The valley has some of the finest chinar gardens in Srinagar, Ganderbal, Anantnag and other places where locals and visitors throng these days to take pictures.

Sunil Kumar, a tourist from Punjab: "It is a treat to be among the fiery chinars. I am lucky to have chosen this time of the year to visit Kashmir."The leaves will finally fall to the ground and become the chief source of charcoal for the locals who collect it from half burnt chinar leaves and fill their 'kangris' (earthen firepots woven in willow wicker). The kangris serve as mobile heaters during the harsh winter months. It is carried by the locals under their 'pherans' (tweed vergarments) and its soothing heat enables Kashmiris to brave even  the most bitter winter."Despite central heating, electric heatersand electric blankets, the kangri still remains our best insurance against the biting cold," said Muzaffar Ahmad, a college principal here."As the electric supply remains erratic, the traditional dependence of the locals on the kangri continues unchallenged," he added.

Mendhar Green Valley of Poonch

Mendhar is also known as 'The green valley of Poonch'. Presently, Mendhar is a tehsil of Poonch district located at the southern side of the district. The Tehsil is bounded by Shahstar range of mountains in the northern side; Bhimber Gali top in the east; Khandhar range of mountains in the southern side, while Poonch river divides the tehsil from the western side.

Before independence, Mendhar was the 4th tehsil of erstwhile Poonch principality with its headquarter at Dharmsal. This tehsil had an of 470 square miles besides 90 square miles area of Thakiala Prava. After partition the whole of Thakiala area came under Pakistan. In 1972 Mendhar tehsil was divided into two tehsils on administrative grounds namely tehsil Mendhar and tehsil Surankote. Presently, tehsil Mendhar is located exactly on the border. 14 villages of the tehsil are touching the LOC. The LOC is spread over 43 kilometers from Tarkundi in the east to Mandla in the south.

Tehsil Mendhar comprises of 57 inhabited villages and 64 panchayats. As per census 2001, the total population of Mendhar was 1.13 lacs, while the projected population of 2010 is 1.77 lacs. Out of the total population about 4500 belongs to Hindu and Sikh communities residing in Mendhar town, Bhera, Harni, Mankote, Sagra, Ari, Dharana, Gohlad etc. On the other hand, the villages located on the slopes of mountains and upper reaches are dominated by Gujjar and Bakerwal community. The population of Mendhar tehsil is considered more prosperous than the other areas of district Poonch. Mendhar is also known for the ancient Ramkund Temple of 8th century AD constructed by Raja Lalita Ditya of Kashmir, Ziarat Hazrat Pir Chhotey Shah Sakhi Maidan, Takiya Sharief of Hazrat Ghulam Shah Badshah, Kalaban and Ziarat Sharief Chhajla. Mendhar is also known for an Old Bowali of Harni where around 1680 AD, Lachamdass alias Banda Beragi of Rajouri had killed a female deer. Later on, he became the disciple of Tenth Guru Gobind Singh and fought a number of battles in Punjab. 

The history of Mendhar travels with the Indian civilization. As per a legend, Pandvas had visited Mendhar during their exile period. They had also constructed a very high tower at Mendhar near Sakhi Maidan. It is said that Kunti, the mother of Pandvas desired that she wanted to see her ancestral city Inderprast. Immediately, Bhima constructed so high a tower at Sakhi Maidan Mendhar, that Kunti could see her native town. There are a number of bowalies, ruins of Pandavas time in the tehsil. The legend goes that these monuments were constructed by the Pandavas.

As per the "History of India" by R.K Mukherji and "2500 years of Budhism" by P.V Bhapat one Greek Governor Manindra (161 BC-130 BC) was ruling Punjab. In those days Mendhar area was a part of his kingdom. Manindra had revolted against Greeks and declared himself as an independent ruler. Since the whole population of his kingdom was the believer of Budhism at that time, therefore, Manindra was also interested in Budhist philosophy. He had approached many priests and interacted with them about Budhism. But no monk was in a position to convince him in discussion. It was by chance he met a Budhist monk namely Naga Sinha who replied all the questions raised by Manindra about Budhism. At the end of this discussion Manindara was filled with spiritual joy and became a disciple of Naga Sinha. 

P.V Bapat writes that Manindra had build a monastery in memory of his discussion with Naga Sinha and named it as Manindra Vihara. Mr. A Koul in his book 'Budhism in Kashmir' writes that the discussion between Naga Sinha and Manindra was held in the southern side of Kashmir valley about 20 yojans from the valley. The famous book on Budhism "Malinda Panaha" written by King Manindra refers to his intimate knowledge of Kashmir and its surrounding areas. Jyotisher Pathic, a renowned writer of Jammu writes in one of his articles published in "Sheraza" Urdu that the place where the discussion between Naga Sinha and Manindra was held is present Mendhar valley of Poonch. There is an old structure in Mendhar at Sakhi Maidan. The architecture of this structure is Indo Greek in style. It clearly indicates that in the ancient time this was a monastery. Presently, this whole valley is known as Mendhar. The local legend goes that the name of Mendhar is after the name of a King. These facts reveal that this King was Manindra, who had constructed a Manindra Vihara at present Sakhi Maidan where the discussions between Manindra and Naga Sinha had taken place. It appears that this place was initially named as Maninder Vihara. Later on with the passage of time it became Manindra which changed to Mendhar.

In 850 AD, when Poonch principality was established by Nara, Mendhar was a part of this principality. This principality remained intact upto 1452 AD when Sultan Zain-ul-Abdin captured the outer hills of Pir Panchal region and established a new outer hill state Poonch-Nowshera under the name of Bhaya Desa Vinah. Mendhar also became a part of this new principality. In 1596 AD a newly converted Muslim Saraj-ud-Din Rathore became the Raja of Poonch principality on the order of Emperor Akbar. Mendhar area came under his control. From 1596 to 1819 AD Poonch remained the principality of Rathore Rajas and Sangu Gujjar Rajas and Mendhar was the part of this principality. In 1852 AD Maharaja Gulab Singh of J&K nominated his nephew Mian Moti Singh, the Raja of Poonch. Moti Singh came to Poonch and established a new principality. Mendhar valley became a part of this principality along with Thakiala Prava area of Kotli. C.E Bats writes in his book 'The Gazetteer of Kashmir' that in 1872 AD, Mendhar was a township and known as Dharamsal with hundred houses on the right bank of Mendhri stream having mixed population. In 1905 AD Capitan R.E.A Hamilton completed the first settlement of Poonch. On administrative grounds, he divided the principality into four tehsils and Mendhar became the largest tehsil in area of the principality. This tehsil also remained a large grain producer of Poonch upto 1947.

During the happening of 30th July 1931 AD in Kashmir, the uprising also started in Poonch area especially in Mendhar tehsil. On 2nd January 1932, the people of Thakiala Prava of Mendhar revolted against the state government and marched towards Poonch. The Raja Jagat Dev Singh of Poonch with the help of Muslim Suddans of tehsil Plandri succeeded in subsiding the revolt but the movement of Kashmir had given birth to a strong political leadership in Mendhar headed by Sardar Fateh Mohd Khan Karelvi. In 1932 AD on the recommendations of Glancy Commission 75 members Legislative Assembly had come into existence under the name of Praja Sabha. Three seats were alloted to Poonch principality. Sardar Fateh Mohd Khan Karelvi of Mendhar was elected MLA from Haveli-Mendhar constituency. He was again elected to Praja Sahba in 1937. During the turmoil of 1947 Mendhar tehsil was captured by the rebel forces and Pakistani Army under the command of Lieutenant Colonel Rehmatulla, a deserter of state forces. About two thousand Hindu and Sikh had become hostage to rebel forces. In this crucial time, Sardar Fateh Mohd Khan Karelvi played a vital role and protected hundreds of Hindu families and helped them to mgrate to Indian side. In 1948 AD, operation link up was started by India forces from Rajouri towards Poonch under the command of Brigadier Yadav Nath Singh. The Indian forces after capturing an important hill top Pir Bardeshwar on 14th October and Pir Kaleva on 26th October in Rajouri area moved towards Mendhar via Manjakote. Bhimber Gali was taken over on 8th November 1948. At that time Mendhar town was the centre of rebel forces and Pakistan army. But Indian forces continued their advance via Mendhar towards Poonch. On 20th November Pir Topa an important feature in Mendhar was captured. On 23rd November Indian forces moved via Jhakha Gali, stormed Mendhar town and captured it. In the next few days all the important hill tops of Khandar range from Balakote upto to Daruchian were taken and Mendhar tehsil was liberated. Presently, the green valley, Mendhar of district Poonch is leading the other areas in over all developmental scenario and political setup.

Nubra Valley in Ladakh

In Nubra there is an ancient Gompha, about 350 years old at Dikshit town. This Gompha is known for having spectacular view of the whole valley from its roof top.        ( Kashmir )

The road to the Nubra valley of Ladakh region passes through Khardung La which is considered the highest( 18380 ft or 5600m) motor able road in the world, from Leh, a distance of 170km. While going up in a vehicle on this road one feels out of breath in these rarefied air. Although, the duration of the drive in such rarefied air hardly lasts for an hour. There is nothing to worry on this context. But the awesome bareness of long mountain ranges around, with varying shades of colours on the ridges, dotted with small green patches of hamlet make the whole area picturesque. The view from Khardung La is surpassing. One sees endless peaks of Zansker ranges spread out in the front and the magnificent Saser Massif looming large overhead in the North.

Nubra has a fertile land. It was originally part of the trade route between Turkistan and Tibet. The valley produces fruits such as apples, apricots, walnuts and grapes. Besides this, grain and mustard are cultivated here. With scanty vegetation and virtually no rainfalls, special breed of sheeps are reared here which produce a special wool known for famous Pashmina or Karakul. Seabuck thorn is visible in large areas with lilac hue over the vast expanse of land make good scope for juices. River Nubra and river Shyok, both meander lazily through this broad and fertile land, often making way through the sandy beds, flowing northwest to join the river Indus in Baltistan(Pakistan).The altitude of Nubra Valley is a little less than that of Leh, between 10,000 ft or 3,050m at Hunder and 10,600ft or 3,230m at Panamik, with the summer temperature ranging between 15 to 20 degree C.             ( Gulmarg )

Double humped Bactrian camels are found in this remotest area of village Hunder in Nubra valley in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir. Anthropologist say that these double humped Bactrian camels are the left over breed of the camels that were used for transporting trade consignments in ancient times through the 'Silk Route', that connected Tibet-Turkistan-Central Asia and Roman empire at the other end. From India foreign travelers used to import cotton, spices, perfumes, sugar and opium. In return they exported silk, Chinese pottery, sheep wool and a special kind of meat, locally called 'dumbkath'(sheep).

These creatures abandoned in village Hunder, by the then passing caravans on the 'Silk Route' have been domesticated by some families for whom these double humped camels have become source of earning. The climatic condition, the geographical contours and surrounding of incredible sand dunes and long wide patches of sandy soil, dotted with thorny shrubs akin to the Sahara desert are conducive for the growth of this species. By appearance these animals are strong. They have a thick coating of fur which can sustain them to brave the harsh winter when temperature dips to minus 20 degrees and above in winters. These species are found in less numbers.

These animals are being used by foreigners as well as locals for their joy ride, along the sandy banks of river Nubra in the area, the last point for civilian movement. The road beyond this village leads to the Siachen glacier base. These camels are also used in winters and summers by the Indian army to carry luggage and ration from one point to another.         ( Adventure Tourism in kashmir )

In Nubra there is an ancient Gompha, about 350 years old at Dikshit town. This Gompha is known for having spectacular view of the whole valley from its roof top. Hunder village is 7km ahead from Dikshit town. The Gompha houses over 90 monks.

The other place of interest in Nubra valley is Panamik, a place of hot springs. Panamik is ahead of Tigre and Sumur villages in this far flung area. Samanling gompha, more than 150 years old, is easily approachable by road and even by foot from village Tigre. In Tigre village a women cooperative society performs cultural shows for tourists. They also sell hand spun and knitted garments to visitors. The money earned is used for the welfare of womenfolk in the region. The area is rich in poplar trees and the green belt has become a good nestling ground for various Himalayan birds and other migratory birds.

Camping facilities are available for staying at Hunder, Tigre and Sumur villages. At Dikshit and Nubra, good hotel accommodation is available.      ( World's highest motorable pass )

How to visit:-

Delhi to Leh by Air

From Leh to Nubra by road

Second choice:

By road from Delhi-Manali-Rohtang Pass-Leh( 2 days)

Surankote Valley in Jammu kashmir

Surankote valley is located in between the mountainous range of Pir Panchal (15600 feet) and Rattan Panchal (8600 feet). Due to its natural atmosphere, attractive scenic spots, snow clad mountain peaks, crystal clear lakes, streams, water falls, glaciers, lush green dhoks, meadows, margs and charming climatic conditions, the valley of Surankote is known as Mini Kashmir of Jammu province. The renowned Urdu writer Late Krishan Chander who had passed his child hood in Poonch area in early thirties has compared Surankote valley with Pahalgam of Kashmir in one of his books. He further wrote that Suran Valley is more beautiful than Pahalgam because it is free from pollution and evils of modern society; the nature is more attractive, exposed and handsome in this valley.      ( Merigold Flowers in jammu )

Surankote township is exactly 27 kilometers in the eastern side of Poonch city and 221 kilometers away from winter capital Jammu. The valley comprises of 43 villages having the status of a Tehsil of district Poonch which was created in 1980 AD. The total projected population of the valley is 1.27 lacs which includes Paharis, Gujjars, Bakerwals and Kashmiri speaking people. 24 villages are located at the slope of main Pir Panchal ranges while 19 villages are existing on the slopes of Rattan Panchal range. The climatic conditions resemble with that of Kashmir valley.     ( Upanayan Sanaskar )

As per Raj Rajtarangni of Kalhan, Surankote valley was known as Savarnik in ancient times. There is a reference of Mula Arjun the Raja of Loharkote Poonch who was detained in Savarnik by the Thakur Jagika (in between 1128-1149 AD) on the orders of Raja Jai Singh of Kashmir. In 11th century AD Savarnik was known for two important forts i.e. Prithvi Pal Fort and Raj Giri Fort. These forts were constructed by Raja Prithvi Pal of Rajpuri (Rajouri) for the defence of Kashmir. The forces of Pal Raja's were stationed in these forts. In 1015 AD during the unsuccessful invasion of Sultan Mehmood Gaznavi on Kashmir, his forces were compelled to retreat from Savarnik Poonch and Rajouri area by the forces of Kashmir and Pahari Rajas of Poonch and Rajouri. In 1036 AD Albruni had visited Rajouri with Emperor Masood (the son of Mehmood Gaznavi). He wrote in his book Indica that these forts were constructed to defend Kashmir by the Pahari Rajas. Since the forts in local languages are known as Kot therefore the whole valley came to known as Savarnik kot. With the passage of time the name changed from Savarnik kot to Surankote. As per Tuzak-e-Jhangiri and Iqbal Nama Akbri, the construction of Mughal road was taken up in 1612 AD by an Irani Engineer Ali Mardan Khan in Suran valley from Rattan Pir to Pir Panchal pass on the order of Emperor Jahangir. With the opening of this road for Mughal caravans, a number of Pacca Sarais, Baradaries, Mosques, Hamams, Marhs etc were also constructed in this valley for the convenience of Mughal caravans. Emperor Jahangir for the first time entered Suran valley in 1612 AD while going to Kashmir. He visited 13 times this area. In 1619 AD, Emperor Jhangir while returning from Kashmir halted at Behramgala for relaxation and fell seriously ill. The Mughal caravan immediately rushed towards Lahore, but Emperor Jhangir took his last breath between Behramgala and Dera Ki Gali in Poonch area. Therefore Suran valley remained centre of great hustle and bustle during the period of Emperor Jahangir.

Renowned traveler G.T Vigney while going to Kashmir had visited Suran valley in 1841 AD. He wrote in his book 'Travelers of Kashmir' and Sikam that he had passed a night at Surankote where an old castle was existing in the valley. C.E Bats who visited this area in 1872 AD describes in his book 'The Gazetteer of Kashmir' that Surankote contains a Thana in which military force is usually quartered. There was a bunglow for travelers in the north of the Surankote. A path from this place was leading towards Gulmarg.

In 1815 AD Maharaja Ranjeet Singh reached Surankote valley along with a big Punjabi force to conquer Kashmir but the Raja of Poonch Ru-Alla-Khan gave him a tough fight at Bari Mang (proper Surankote). No doubt that in 1819 AD Maharaja captured Kashmir but Suran valley remained dominated by self styled Pahari and Gujjar Sardars from 1823 to 1852 AD. In 1852 AD, Dogra Raja Moti Singh was nominated by his uncle Maharaja Gulab Singh as the Raja of Poonch and Surankote became the part of Poonch principality. Raja Moti Singh used to go to Jammu via Suran valley and halted at Bufliaz to enjoy the natural beauty of valley. After the happening of 1947 Suran valley became a part of Poonch district and attained the status of tehsil in 1980 AD. ( Monsoon in India )

The valley is known for Asthans, Dargas and Shrines. Asthan Peer Habib Shah Pamrote and Taqia Ghulam Shah Badhshah Lassana are the most sacred places for Muslim population. On the other hand, Shiv Temple at Behramgala, Temple Kali Mata at Dhundak and Narayan Khori in the village Gundi are the ancient worship places of Hindus. On the eve of Navratras a big mela is organized at Kali Temple Dundak twice in a year in a traditional manner. The important lakes like Nandan Sar, Chandan Sar, Sukh Sar, Bagh Sar, Neel Sar, Katora Sar on an altitude of 12000 to 14000 feet from the sea level are also considered sacred for Hindus which are located in Girgan area of Peer Panchal Range.

After 1975 AD when financial powers were decentralized and annual plan started at grass root level, a lot of development have been taken place in Suran valley. Almost all the villages have been electrified, covered under drinking water facilities. Basic schooling facilities have also been provided. Apart from Anganwari centres, Health centres and live stock centres also exist in the valley. Efforts are being made to link the villages with pacca roads. A number of link roads have been started under PMGSY from 2009 onward. Recently 40 crore's project of 52 kilometer Mandi-Bufliaz road have been approved under CRF. By this way 27 villages across nallah Suran and nallah Mandi shall be connected with road. The famous Mughal road is nearing completion and it is expected that the road will be opened for general traffic by June 2010. With the opening of this road a number of virgin scenic spots of Suran valley like Bufliaz, Behramgala, Dera Ki Gali, Dogran, Poshiana, Chandimarh, Ratta Chamb, Panjtari, Girgin and Pir Pass shall be converted into tourist resorts. There is a good scope for adventures tourism in the valley which is suitable for trekkers because the number of peaks of Peer Panchal range including Tata Kuti (15600 feet) are existing in this area.